Occlusive formulations

ABSTRACT

The invention provides a topical o/w emulsion which moisturizes, and protects, repairs or restores the skin lipid barrier of a mammal. The topical o/w emulsion composition comprises a discontinuous oil phase; a continuous aqueous phase comprising water; a thickening agent; at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising a phospholipid, a fatty alcohol, and a fatty acid; and wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate of less than about 70 g·m −2 ·hr −1  measured in vitro using the modWVTR test methodology.

This application is a 371 of International Application No.PCT/US2016/058585, filed Oct. 25, 2016, which claims the benefit of U.S.Provisional Application No. 62/247,796, filed Oct. 29, 2015, which isincorporated herein in its entirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to novel occlusive compositions fortopical application.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

WO 2012/104604 describes a blend for use in personal care compositions,which comprises a dialkyl amphiphilic component and an ester of abranched fatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol. The blend may be usedas the oil phase of an oil-in-water emulsion composition, and mayfurther comprise a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol. Blends prepared inaccordance with WO 2012/104604 are commercially available from CrodaInternational PLC as DuraQuench™ blends. For example, DuraQuench™ IQcomprises potassium cetyl phosphate, isostearyl isostearate, behenicacid, cetyl alcohol and cetyl behenate. DuraQuench™ IQ SA comprisespotassium cetyl phosphate, isostearyl isostearate, stearic acid, cetylalcohol and cetyl stearate. The DuraQuench™ blends are adapted for usein personal care compositions and provide moisturization to the skin byforming a layer on the skin's surface and regulating water loss. Seealso Pennick et al., Intl J Cos Sci, 34, P 567-574 (2012).

U.S. Pat. No. 5,849,315 describes an emulsifier composition for skincare formulations that produces a bilayer lamellar gel network. Theemulsifier composition comprises about 3-40% lecithin, and a blend ofHLB emulsifier gellants comprising about 8-30% behenyl alcohol, about15-30% glyceryl monostearate, about 15-40% of a mixture of palmitic andstearic acids, and 0-30% of maleated soybean oil. U.S. Pat. No.5,849,315 also describes a skin care formulation containing about 2-7%of the emulsifier composition. Emulsifier compositions prepared inaccordance with U.S. Pat. No. 5,849,315 are available from Ashland,Inc., and are marketed under the ProLipid® trade mark.

Stiefel Laboratories have marketed two topical o/w emulsion products forthe foot and the hand, said products comprising Probiol ConcentrateN03043S present in an amount of about 20%, and Behenyl Alcohol presentin about 4-5% w/w ranges.

However, there remains a need in the art for cosmetically elegantcompositions which have improved levels of occlusivity compared withthose lipid mixtures described above, and in those products commerciallysold.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a topicalcomposition that minimizes trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), e.g.reduces the amount/quantity of water that passes from inside the bodythough the epidermal layer (skin) to the surrounding atmosphere.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a topicalcomposition which is convenient, easily applied to the skin andcosmetically elegant.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

One embodiment of the disclosure is a topical oil-in-water emulsioncomposition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, and (ii) a fatty alcohol; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m²·hr′ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

Another embodiment of the disclosure is a topical oil-in-water emulsioncomposition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m²·hr′ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

Another embodiment of the disclosure is a topical oil-in-water emulsioncomposition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fatty acid, and (iv)        an ester of a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m²·hr′ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

Another embodiment of the disclosure is a method for moisturizing, andprotecting, repairing, or restoring the skin lipid barrier of a mammal,the method comprising applying to the skin of the mammal in need thereofan effective amount of a topical oil-in-water emulsion compositioncomprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

Another embodiment of the disclosure is a method for moisturizing, andprotecting, repairing, or restoring the skin lipid barrier of a mammal,the method comprising applying to the skin of the mammal in need thereofan effective amount of a topical oil-in-water emulsion compositioncomprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fatty acid, and (iv)        an ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m²·hr′ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

Yet another embodiment of the disclosure is the use of a topicaloil-in-water emulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology, for moisturizing, and protecting, repairing, or restoringthe skin lipid barrier of a mammal.

One embodiment of the disclosure is a topical oil-in-water emulsioncomposition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid        ester; and wherein in use the composition has a water vapor        transmission rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr⁻¹ measured in        vitro using the modWVTR test methodology

A further embodiment of the disclosure is a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fatty acid, and (iv)        a fatty acid ester; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology, for use in moisturizing, and protecting, repairing, orrestoring the skin lipid barrier of a mammal.

Yet a further embodiment of the disclosure is the use of a topicaloil-in-water emulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fatty acid, and (iv)        a fatty acid ester; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology, in the manufacture of a cosmetic or pharmaceuticalcomposition for moisturizing, and protecting, repairing, or restoringthe skin lipid barrier of a mammal.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 illustrates key physical differences between an oil in wateremulsion that can form a lamellar structure (A) and a liposome (B).

FIG. 2 illustrates the water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) forFormulations 1-13.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In one embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, and (ii) a fatty alcohol; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 gm⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

In another embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid; and

wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 gm⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

The emulsion compositions of the present invention have improved levelsof occlusivity compared with prior art compositions.

In one embodiment, the composition is a cream, lotion, balm, lip creamor stick lip balm. In an embodiment, the composition is a cream. Inanother embodiment, the composition is a lotion. In a furtherembodiment, the composition is a balm. In yet a further embodiment, thecomposition is a lip cream. In another embodiment, the composition is astick lip balm.

According to the invention, the topical composition in use has a watervapor transmission rate (WVTR) of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measuredin vitro using the modWVTR test methodology. In an embodiment, thecomposition in use has a water vapor transmission rate of less thanabout 65 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology. In one embodiment, the composition in use has a water vaportransmission rate of less than about 62 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitrousing the modWVTR test methodology. In another embodiment, thecomposition in use has a water vapor transmission rate of less thanabout 60 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology. In yet another embodiment, the composition in use has awater vapor transmission rate of less than about 50 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measuredin vitro using the modWVTR test methodology.

In one embodiment, the composition in use has a water vapor transmissionrate from about 35 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ to about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitrousing the modWVTR test methodology. In a further embodiment, thecomposition in use has a water vapor transmission rate from about 40g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ to about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTRtest methodology. In yet a further embodiment, the composition in usehas a water vapor transmission rate from about 40 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ to about 65g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR test methodology. In anembodiment, the composition in use has a water vapor transmission ratefrom about 40 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ to about 60 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro usingthe modWVTR test methodology.

In an embodiment, the composition in use has a water vapor transmissionrate of about 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48,49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66,67, 68, 69 or 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.

Oil Phase

The compositions of this disclosure comprise a discontinuous oil phase.The discontinuous oil phase is dispersed throughout the continuousaqueous phase.

In an embodiment, the discontinuous oil phase comprises at least one oiland/or fat. For purposes herein oil, lipid and fat are usedinterchangeably. In one embodiment, the oil and/or fat is a mixture oftwo or more oils and/or fats.

Exemplary oils and fats include, but are not limited to, fatty acids, asource of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters, esters of glycerin(including mono-, di- and tri-esters), waxes, sterols, hydrocarbons,essential oils, vegetable oils and edible oils, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is a fatty acid whichmay be saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight chain. Exemplaryfatty acids include, but are not limited to, lauric acid, tridecylicacid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid,stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenicacid, ricinoleic acid, columbinic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidicacid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentanoic acid, heneicosylic acid, behenicacid, tricosylic acid, lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, pentacosylicacid, cerotic acid, heptacosylic acid, montanic acid, nonacosylic acid,melissic acid, henatriacontylic acid, lacceroic acid, psyllic acid,geddic acid, ceroplastic acid and hexatriacontylic acid, and mixturesthereof.

The fatty acid can be introduced into the present compositions from avariety of sources. In an embodiment, the fatty acid is provided in thecomposition as an oil or wax. Examples of oils or waxes useful in thisregard include, but are not limited to, rice bran oil, rice bran wax,flaxseed oil, hempseed oil, pumpkin seed oil, canola oil, soybean oil,wheat germ oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primroseoil, black currant seed oil, chestnut oil, corn oil, safflower oil,sunflower oil, sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, sesameoil and olus (vegetable) oil, including hydrogenated andnon-hydrogenated versions thereof, and mixtures thereof Δn exemplary waxuseful in this regard is rice bran wax.

In one embodiment, the source of fatty acids is shea butter, also knownas Butyrospermum parkii, if chemically treated. Shea butter comprisesfive principal fatty acids, namely palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleicacid, linoleic acid and arachidic acid. Shea butter also comprisesphytosterols.

In another embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is a fattyalcohol which may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or straightchain. In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is suitably a C₁₂-C₃₆branched or straight chain fatty alcohol. In one embodiment, the C₁₂-C₃₆chain is branched. In another embodiment the component is a C₁₄-C₂₆branched or straight chain fatty alcohol. In one embodiment, the C₁₄-C₂₆chain is branched. In another embodiment it is a C₁₆ to C₂₂ branched orstraight chain fatty alcohol. In one embodiment, the C₁₆ to C₂₂ chain isbranched. In another embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a branched orstraight chain C₂₀-C₂₆ fatty alcohol. In one embodiment, the C₂₀-C₂₆chain is branched. In yet another embodiment the fatty alcohol is a C₁₈or C₂₂ or C₂₄ branched or straight chain fatty alcohol. In oneembodiment, the Cis or C₂₂ or C₂₄ fatty alcohol chain is branched.

Exemplary fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, decyl alcohol,lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol,heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,nonadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, heneicosyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, erucyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol,1-heptacosanol, montanyl alcohol, 1-nonacosanol, myricyl alcohol,lacceryl alcohol, geddyl alcohol, tetratriacontanol, lanolin alcohol andpalm alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the fatty alcoholis behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol. In anotherembodiment, the fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

In yet another embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is an ester.Exemplary esters include, but are not limited to,coco-caprylate/caprate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate,diisopropyl dilinoleate, ethyl oleate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate,glycol distearate, glycol stearate, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate,isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate,isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate,methyl laurate, methyl salicylate, methyl stearate, myristyl lactate,octyl salicylate, oleyl oleate, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether distearate,propylene glycol diacetate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propyleneglycol monolaurate, propylene glycol monopalmitostearate, propyleneglycol ricinoleate and sucrose distearate, and mixtures thereof.

In another embodiment, the ester is isostearyl isostearate.

In another embodiment, the ester is other than cetyl lactate.

In a further embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is an ester ofglycerin (including mono-, di- and tri-esters). Exemplary esters ofglycerin include, but are not limited to, caprylic/capric triglycerides,caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, cocoglycerides, glyceryl citrate,glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryloleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl stearate,mono and diglyceride, PEG-12 glyceryl laurate, PEG-120 glycerylstearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyoxyl glyceryl stearate, tallowglycerides and medium chain triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. In oneembodiment, the ester of glycerin is caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In one embodiment, the ester of glycerin is other than glycerylmonosterarate. In another embodiment if the ester of glycerin isglyceryl monosterarate than the oil phase comprises a second oil or fat.In another embodiment, if the ester of glycerin is glyceryl monostearatethan the oil phase comprises a second and different ester of glycerine.

In yet a further embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is a wax.Exemplary waxes include, but are not limited to, animal waxes, plantwaxes, mineral waxes, silicone waxes, synthetic waxes and petroleumwaxes. Suitable waxes include, but are not limited to, rice bran wax,carnauba wax, paraffin wax, white wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, jojobawax, ozokerite and a spingolipid or a spingolipid mimic such as aceramide, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment the waxes are ricebran wax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax, white wax, candelilla wax,beeswax, jojoba wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is wax is asphingolipid or a sphingolipid mimic. Ceramides, acylceramides andglucosylceramides are all members of the “sphingoid” or “spingolipids”class. As noted above, these are compounds which have a backbone ofsphingosine or a closely related structure to which either fatty acidsor ω-esterified fatty acids are linked through an amide linkage at theamino group of the sphingosine structure and in the case of aglucosylceramide, those to which saccharide moieties are linked to theterminal hydroxyl of the sphingosine structure through a glycosidicbond.

More specifically, ceramides are a family of lipid molecules composed ofsphingosine and a fatty acid. They contain an acyl linkage, and mostabundant chain length in healthy skin is C₂₄-C₂₆ with a small fractionhaving an acyl chain length of C₁₆-C₁₈. Ceramides are found extensivelyin the stratum corneum. Ceramides are commercially available from majorchemical suppliers such as Evonik, Mobile, Ala., USA or Sigma ChemicalCompany, St. Louis, Mo., U.S.A.

Exemplary ceramides useful in the present compositions include, but arenot limited to, ceramide-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -6 or -7, and mixturesthereof. Other ceramides known to those of skill in the art as useful intopical compositions are further contemplated as useful in the presentcompositions. In one embodiment, the ceramide is ceramide-3. Suitably,the ceramide if present is in the lamellar membrane structure in anamount from about 0.001% to about 1% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the sphingoid or sphingolipid is a ceramide or aphytospingosine. In one embodiment, the sphingoid or sphingolipid is aphytospingosine.

In an embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is a sterol. Exemplarysterols include, but are not limited to, Brassica Campestris sterols,C₁₀-C₃₀ cholesterol/lanosterol esters, canola sterols, cholesterol,glycine soja sterols, PEG-20 phytosterol and phytosterols, and mixturesthereof. In one embodiment, the sterol is a phytosterol.

Phytosterols are natural components of common vegetable oils. Exemplarysources of phytosterols useful in this regard include, but are notlimited to, shea butter, vegetable oil, tall oil, sesame oil, sunfloweroil, sunflower seed oil, rice bran oil, cranberry seed oil, pumpkin seedoil and avocado wax, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the sourceof phytosterols is shea butter.

Phytosterols are typically incorporated in the basal membrane of theskin and can pass to the skin's surface through the differentiation ofskin cells. Accordingly, phytosterols provide an improved caring andprotecting effect. The topical application of phytosterols also usuallyleads to an increased skin moisture level and to increased lipidcontent. This improves the desquamation behavior of the skin and reduceserythemas which may be present. R. Wachter, Parf. Kosm., Vol. 75, p. 755(1994) and R. Wachter, Cosm. Toil., Vol. 110, p. 72 (1995), each ofwhich are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety, furtherdemonstrate these advantageous properties of phytosterols.

Suitably, the phytosterol, source of phytosterols, cholesterol, orcholesterol derivative is present in the at least one lamellar membranestructure in an amount from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, based onthe total weight of the composition.

One embodiment of the composition is the inclusion of a phytosterol,cholesterol or cholesterol derivative in combination with a sphingoid orsphingolipid. In one embodiment, the sphingoid or sphingolipid is aceramide and/or is a phytospingosine.

In another embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is a hydrocarbon.Exemplary hydrocarbons include, but are not limited to, dodecane,petrolatum, mineral oil, squalane, squalene and paraffin, and mixturesthereof. In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon is petrolatum, or a mixtureof petrolatum and another oil or fat. In another embodiment, thehydrocarbon is a mixture of petrolatum and a second hydrocarbon. Inanother embodiment, the hydrocarbon is a mixture of mineral oil and asecond hydrocarbon. In yet another embodiment, the hydrocarbon is amixture of petrolatum and squalane. In yet another embodiment, thehydrocarbon is a mixture of mineral oil and squalane. In yet anotherembodiment, the hydrocarbon is a mixture of petrolatum and mineral oil.

Squalane helps enhance the skin's natural barrier function, protect theskin against the elements, and boost the skin's ability to retainmoisture. Squalane is a component of human stratum corneum. Squalane isavailable in purified form (see e.g. Fitoderm® available from BASF) andmay be used in the compositions in its purified form. Alternatively, anoil which is rich in squalane may be used.

Exemplary sources of squalane useful in the present compositionsinclude, but are not limited to, shark liver oil, olive oil, palm oil,wheat germ oil, amaranth oil, rice bran oil and sugar cane. It isunderstood that squalane from these sources of oils is considered alipid component. In one embodiment, squalane isolated from olive oil ispreferred. Suitably, the squalane is present in the at least onelamellar membrane structure in an amount from about 0.05% to about 2% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In yet another embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is anessential oil. Exemplary essential oils include, but are not limited to,primrose oil, rose oil, eucalyptus oil, borage oil, bergamot oil,chamomile oil, citronella oil, lavender oil, peppermint oil, pine oil,pine needle oil, spearmint oil, tea tree oil and wintergreen oil, andmixtures thereof.

In a further embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is a vegetableoil. Exemplary vegetable oils include, but are not limited to, olus(vegetable) oil, almond oil, aniseed oil, canola oil, castor oil,coconut oil, corn oil, avocado oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palmkernel oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil and soybean oil,including hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated versions thereof, andmixtures thereof.

In yet a further embodiment, the at least one oil and/or fat is anedible oil. Exemplary edible oils include, but are not limited to,cinnamon oil, clove oil, lemon oil and peppermint oil, and mixturesthereof.

In an embodiment the oil is a fatty acid, a source of fatty acids, or anester of glycerin as described herein. In an embodiment, the source offatty acids is olus (vegetable) oil, olive oil or rice bran oil.

Suitably, the discontinuous oil phase is present in an amount from about5% to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In an embodiment, the discontinuous oil phase is present in an amountfrom about 5% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In another embodiment, the discontinuous oil phase ispresent in an amount from about 5% to about 45% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition. In yet another embodiment, thediscontinuous oil phase is present in an amount from about 5% to about35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the oil phase does not contain maleated soybean oil.In another embodiment the oil phase does not contain from about 0 toabout 30% of maleated soybean oil.

Aqueous Phase

The compositions of the invention comprise a continuous aqueous phase.The aqueous phase comprises water. Any additional components which arewater miscible will be dissolved in this aqueous phase.

Suitably, the continuous aqueous phase is present in an amount fromabout 10% to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In an embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase is presentin an amount from about 25% to about 90% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition. In another embodiment, the continuous aqueousphase is present in an amount from about 10% to about 70% by weight,based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, thecontinuous aqueous phase is present in an amount from about 25% to about75% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In anotherembodiment, the continuous aqueous phase is present in an amount fromabout 45% to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In yet another embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase ispresent in an amount from about 50% to about 90% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition. In a further embodiment, the continuousaqueous phase is present in an amount from about 60% to about 90% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition. In yet anotherembodiment, the continuous aqueous phase comprises water in an amountfrom about 35% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In yet another embodiment, the continuous aqueous phasecomprises water in an amount from about 40% to about 75% by weight,based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase comprises glycerin. Inanother embodiment, the glycerin is present in an amount from about 1%to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Inanother embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase comprises glycerin inan amount from about 5% to about 15% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition. In yet another embodiment, the continuousaqueous phase comprises glycerin in an amount of about 10% by weight,based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase may also include a sugaralcohol. Suitable sugar alcohols can include but are not limited toglucose, glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol, maltitol, galactitol, erythritol,xylitol, inositol, lactitol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment,the sugar alcohol is glucose. The sugar alcohol may be present in anamount from about 1% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weightof the composition.

The continuous aqueous phase may further comprise other water misciblecomponents; such as for example, water miscible thickening agents,humectants and pH adjusting agents.

Thickening Agent

The compositions of the invention comprise at least one thickening agentor rheology modifier. In an embodiment, the thickening agent is amixture of two or more thickening agents.

The function of the thickening agent is to stabilize the discontinuousoil phase of the composition. The thickening agent may also providehardness and structural support useful in forming a stick composition,for example. Thickening agents may be water miscible which are used tothicken the aqueous portion of the emulsion composition. Otherthickening agents are nonaqueous making them suitable for thickening theoil phase of the emulsion composition. Yet other thickening agents suchas those described below, may act at the oil-water interface and thuslie at the interphase boundary.

Exemplary water miscible thickening agents include, but are not limitedto, a cellulose derivative such as carboxymethylcellulose,hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose; agar; carrageenan; curdlan; gelatin; gellan; β-glucan;tragacanth gum; guar gum; gum arabic; locust bean gum; pectin; starch; acarbomer; and xanthan gum or a xanthan gum derivative such asdehydroxanthan gum; salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. In yet anotherembodiment, the thickening agent is a carbomer or a salt thereof, suchas sodium carbomer. In a further embodiment, the thickening agent ishydroxyethylcellulose.

Exemplary nonaqueous thickening agents include, but are not limited to,acrylate copolymers, VP/Eicosene copolymer, waxes, fatty alcohols andfatty acids.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent is a fatty alcohol such asdescribed above in the oil phase. Suitable fatty alcohols include, butare not limited to, behenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, caprylylalcohol, decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lanolinalcohol, arachidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, isocetylalcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, andmixtures thereof.

Other suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, tridecylalcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol,heptadecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, nonadecylalcohol, heneicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, lignocerylalcohol, ceryl alcohol, 1-heptacosanol, montanyl alcohol, 1-nonacosanol,myricyl alcohol, lacceryl alcohol, geddyl alcohol, tetratriacontanol,and lanolin alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent is a fatty acid which may besaturated or unsaturated, branched or straight chained), or a source offatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty acids include those mentioned above in the oil phase, andalso include but are not limited to, isostearic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, oleic acid, myristic acid, ricinoleic acid, columbinicacid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, lignoceric acid, nervonic acid,eicosapentanoic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid, andmixtures thereof. In one embodiment the fatty acid is behenic acid.

Other exemplary fatty acids include, but are not limited to lauric acid,tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, margaric acid, oleicacid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, heneicosylicacid, behenic acid, tricosylic acid, lignoceric acid, pentacosylic acid,cerotic acid, heptacosylic acid, montanic acid, nonacosylic acid,melissic acid, henatriacontylic acid, lacceroic acid, psyllic acid,geddic acid, ceroplastic acid and hexatriacontylic acid, and mixturesthereof.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent comprises a mixture of one ormore of a fatty alcohol, a cellulose derivative, a xanthan derivative, anon-aqueous agent, and a carbomer. In one embodiment, the thickeningagent mixture may comprise one or more of behenyl alcohol,dehydroxanthan gum, VP/Eicosene copolymer, acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate cross polymer and sodium carbomer. In an embodiment, thethickening agent is a mixture of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 andhydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In an embodiment, the thickening agent is an acrylate copolymer, such asacrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer, polyacrylatecrosspolymer-6, or a mixture of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodiumacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent is polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 is available as “Sepimax Zen” from Seppic, asubsidiary of Air Liquide Group.

In another embodiment, the thickening agent is a mixture of hydroxyethylacrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. A mixture ofhydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer isavailable as “Sepinov Weo” from Seppic, a subsidiary of Air LiquideGroup.

In yet another embodiment, the thickening agent is a mixture ofpolyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent is xanthan gum. In anotherembodiment, the thickening agent is dehydroxanthan gum. In yet anotherembodiment, the thickening agent is a carbomer or a salt thereof, suchas sodium carbomer. In a further embodiment, the thickening agent ishydroxyethylcellulose.

Suitably, the thickening agent is present in an amount from about 0.1%to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Inan embodiment, the thickening agent is present in an amount from about0.2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In another embodiment, the thickening agent is present inan amount from about 0.2% to about 2% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.

Lamellar Membrane Structure

The compositions of the invention comprise at least one lamellarmembrane structure. Generally this refers to a planar lipid bilayersheet, or a slight curve around a droplet of oil. They may also exist asseparate discrete lamellae in the bulk aqueous phase. This is incontrast to a rounded formed liposomal structure. In another embodiment,the respective lamellar membrane structures form two or more stackedlamellar membrane structures, sometimes referenced as a liquid crystal.Two lamellar membrane structures stacked together, one on top of theother, is known as a double lamellar membrane structure.

FIG. 1 illustrates the key physical difference between an oil in wateremulsion that can form a lamellar structure (A) and a liposome (B). Inan O/W emulsion the surfactant-emulsifiers orientate so that thehydrophilic heads face out into the continuous phase and the hydrophobictails are anchored within the oil droplet. In the case of a liposome,these are typically aqueous filled cores where the hydrophilic heads ofthe interfacial layer of surfactant-emulsifer (here shown as a dialkylphospholipid which can form liposomal structures) orientated toward thehydrophilic aqueous core and for the outermost layer, orientated towardsthe continuous phase.

Even if systems contain lamellar forming ingredients such as thosefurther described herein, those systems can be prepared in a manner thatwill yield either a liposome or O/W emulsion. The physicalcharacteristics of each system is different and is outlined below.

Property O/W Emulsion Aqueous Core Liposome Droplet size Typically >1000nm Range from 25 nm to 500 nm Opacity Very often white in Can betranslucent to blue appearance due to greater due to wavelength of lightinteraction with visible absorption/reflection light. Rheology/ Mid tohigh viscosity Tend towards low viscosity Viscosity system (attributableto long systems (limited long range range interactions betweeninteractions between droplets) systems) Dynamic Viscosity can build postViscosity is relatively stable Lamellar manufacture due to as lamellarliposomal Structure thermodynamic structure has been (Viscosityequilibration. Lamellar established during the Building) structurebuilds with time manufacturing process. causing an increase inviscosity.

The properties described above are measurable using standard labmeasurement methods available in the art. All of these properties willclearly provide for an accurate designation of those O/W emulsions(microscopy, rheology, visual assessment) having lamellar structures(e.g. with FTIR/XRD).

According to the invention, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid and (ii) a fatty alcohol.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) an esterof a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol.

According to the invention, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid and (ii) a fatty alcohol; and (iii) anester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) fatty acid and (iii) an ester of afatty acid and a fatty alcohol.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) fatty alcohol and (iii) a fatty acid.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fatty acid,and (iv) and an ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol. In oneembodiment the ester is of a branched fatty acid and a branched fattyalcohol.

In yet another embodiment the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprising any of these above components, in use, has a water vaportransmission rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitrousing the modWVTR test methodology as further described herein.

In one embodiment, when the lamellar blend contains a fatty alcohol ofC₁₆-18 chain length (branched or straight chain), it may also compriseand a second fatty alcohol (branched or straight chain). Suitably thesecond fatty alcohol is of C₂₂-C₃₆ carbon atom length.

Suitably, the components of the lamellar membrane structure are presentin an amount from about 2.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition. In an embodiment, the components of thelamellar membrane structure are present in an amount from about 3% toabout 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Inanother embodiment, the components of the lamellar membrane structureare present in an amount of about 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%,12%, 13%, 14% or 15% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.

Suitably, the components of the lamellar membrane structure are presentin an amount from about 1 to about 20% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition. In another embodiment, the one lamellarmembrane structurant is present in an amount from about 1 to about 15%by weight. In another embodiment, the components of the lamellarmembrane structure are present in an amount of about 8 to about 10%, byweight, based on the total weight of the composition. In yet anotherembodiment, the components of the lamellar membrane structure arepresent in an amount of about 8.8% by weight, based on the total weightof the composition.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises a (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid, and (iv) an ester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fattyalcohol and squalane.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises a (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid, and (iv) an ester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fattyalcohol and at least one of rice bran oil and/or rice bran wax.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises a (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid, and (iv) an ester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fattyalcohol, and at least one of a phytosterol, squalane, rice bran oiland/or rice bran wax. In yet a further embodiment, the at least onelamellar membrane structure further comprises a ceramide.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises a (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid, and (iv) an ester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fattyalcohol at least one of a phytosterol, squalane, rice bran oil, ricebran wax, and a sphingolipid or a sphingolipid mimic.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises a (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid, and (iv) an ester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fattyalcohol, a phytosterol, and optionally at least one of squalane, ricebran oil, rice bran wax, pentylene glycol, and a sphingolipid or asphingolipid mimic.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises a (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid, and (iv) an ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, and atleast one of rice bran oil, rice bran wax, squalane, a phytosterol,cholesterol or cholesterol derivative, a sphingolipid or a sphingolipidmimic, or a triglyceride. In one embodiment, the ester is of a branchedfatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol.

Many of the lipids used in the present compositions are the same orsimilar to the lipids found in human stratum corneum.

Phospholipid

The compositions of the invention comprise a phospholipid. Suitably, thephospholipid is selected from the group consisting of lecithin,hydrogenated lecithin, phosphatidylcholine and hydrogenatedphosphatidylcholine, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the phospholipid is lecithin. In another embodiment,the phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin. In yet another embodiment,the phospholipid is phosphatidylcholine. In a further embodiment, thephospholipid is hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine.

In yet a further embodiment, the phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithinor hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine. In one embodiment, the phospholipidis a mixture of phosphatidylcholine and hydrogenatedphosphatidylcholine.

In an embodiment, the phospholipid is present in an amount from about0.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In another embodiment, the phospholipid is present in anamount from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.

Fatty Alcohol

The lamellar membrane structure comprises a fatty alcohol. In anembodiment, the fatty alcohol is a branched or straight chain, saturatedor unsaturated C₁₂-C₃₆ fatty alcohol. In another embodiment, the fattyalcohol is a C₁₄-C₂₆ fatty alcohol. In one embodiment, the chain is ofC₁₆ to C₂₂ carbon atoms. In another, the chain is of C₁₈-C₃₀ carbonatoms. In a further embodiment, the chain is of C₂₀-C₂₆ carbon atoms. Inyet another embodiment, the chain is of C₂₀-C₃₀ carbon atoms. In afurther embodiment, the chain is of C₂₂ to C₂₈ carbon atoms. In anotherembodiment, the fatty alcohol is a branched or straight chain, saturatedor unsaturated C₁₈ or C₂₀ or C₂₂ or C₂₄ carbon atoms. In yet a furtherembodiment, the fatty alcohol is a branched or straight C₂₂ fattyalcohol. In another embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a branched chainfatty alcohol. In another embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a straightchain fatty alcohol. In an embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a mixture oftwo or more fatty alcohols.

In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a branched chain fatty alcohol.In another embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a straight chain fattyalcohol. The mixture may be a combination of branched, straight,unsaturated and saturated fatty alcohols. In another embodiment, thefatty alcohol is a mixture of at least two fatty alcohols of differingchain lengths.

Exemplary straight chain fatty alcohols for use in the invention includeall of those mentioned above under the oil phase and the thickeningagents and further include but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol (Cu),tridecyl alcohol (C₁₃), myristyl alcohol (C₁₄), pentadecyl alcohol(C₁₅), cetyl alcohol (C₁₆), cetearyl alcohol (C₁₆/C₁₈), palmitoleylalcohol (C₁₆), heptadecyl alcohol (C₁₇), stearyl alcohol (C₁₈),nonadecyl alcohol (C₁₉), arachidyl alcohol (C₁₆), heneicosyl alcohol(C₂₁), behenyl alcohol (C₂₂), erucyl alcohol (C₂₂), lignoceryl alcohol(C₂₄), ceryl alcohol (C₂₆), 1-heptacosanol (C₂₇), montanyl alcohol(C₂₈), 1-nonacosanol (C₂₉), myricyl alcohol (C₃₀), lacceryl alcohol(C₃₂), geddyl alcohol (C₃₄) and tetratriacontanol (C₃₆), and mixturesthereof.

In one embodiment, the fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to,behenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, caprylyl alcohol, decyl alcohol,lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol,arachidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylalcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol(C₁₈).

In one embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol(C₂₂).

In another embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is a mixture ofcetyl alcohol (C₁₆) and behenyl alcohol (C₂₂).

In an embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is a C₁₂-C₃₆ straightchain fatty alcohol. In another embodiment, the straight chain fattyalcohol is a C₁₄-C₂₆ straight chain fatty alcohol. In yet anotherembodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is a C₁₆-C₂₂ straight chainfatty alcohol. In another embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcoholis a C₁₈-C₂₃₀ straight chain fatty alcohol. In another embodiment, thestraight chain fatty alcohol is a C₂₀-C₃₀ straight chain fatty alcohol.In another embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is a C₂₂-C₂₈straight chain fatty alcohol. In yet a further embodiment, the straightchain fatty alcohol is a C₂₀ or C₂₂ or C₂₄ straight chain fatty alcohol.In yet a further embodiment, the straight chain fatty alcohol is a C₂₄straight chain fatty alcohol.

In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is present in an amount from about2% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In another embodiment, the fatty alcohol is present in an amount fromabout 2% to about 10% by weight, or from about 2% to about 7.5% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the fatty alcohol and the phospholipid are present ina weight ratio from about 10:1 to about 1:1. In another embodiment, thefatty alcohol and the phospholipid are present in a weight ratio fromabout 8:1 to about 2:1. In yet another embodiment, the fatty alcohol andthe phospholipid are present in a weight ratio from about 5:1 to about4:1.

Fatty Acid

In an embodiment, the lamellar membrane structure further comprises afatty acid. In an embodiment, the fatty acid is a mixture of two or morefatty acids.

In an embodiment, the fatty acid is a C₁₂-C₃₆ fatty acid which may besaturated or unsaturated, branched or straight chained. In oneembodiment, the branched or straight chain is C₁₆-C₂₆ carbon atoms. Inanother embodiment the branched or straight chain is C₁₂-C₂₂ carbonatoms. In another, the branched or straight chain is C₁₈-C₃₆ carbonatoms. In another, the branched or straight chain is C₁₈-C₃₀ carbonatoms. In another embodiment, the branched or straight chain is C₂₀-C₃₀carbon atoms. In yet another embodiment, the branched or straight chainis C₂₀-C₂₈ carbon atoms. In a further embodiment, the branched orstraight chain is C₂₀-C₂₆ carbon atoms. In a further embodiment, thebranched or straight chain is C₂₂-C₂₈ carbon atoms. In yet anotherembodiment, the branched or straight chain is C₂₂-C₃₀ carbon atoms. Inyet a further embodiment, the fatty acid is a branched or straight C₂₂or a C₂₄ chain.

In one embodiment, the fatty acid is a straight chain fatty acid. In oneembodiment, the fatty acid is an unsaturated straight chain fatty acid.

In an embodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is a C₁₂ to C₃₆ straightchain fatty acid. In an embodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is aC₁₆ to C₃₆ straight chain fatty acid. In another embodiment, thestraight chain fatty acid is a C₁₂-C₂₂ straight chain fatty acid. In anembodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is a C₁₈ to C₃₆ straight chainfatty acid. In an embodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is a C₁₈ toC₃₀ straight chain fatty acid. In yet another embodiment, the straightchain fatty acid is a C₂₀-C₃₀ straight chain fatty acid. In a furtherembodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is a C₂₀-C₂₈ straight chainfatty acid. In an embodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is a C₂₀ toC₂₆ straight chain fatty acid. In yet a further embodiment, the straightchain fatty acid is a C₂₂ or a C₂₄ straight chain fatty acid.

Exemplary straight chain fatty acids for use in the lamellar membranestructure include, but are not limited to, lauric acid (C₁₂), tridecylicacid (C₁₃), myristic acid (C₁₄), pentadecylic acid (C₁₅), palmitic acid(C₁₆), margaric acid (C₁₇), stearic acid (C₁₈), nonadecylic acid (C₁₉),arachidic acid (C₂₀), heneicosylic acid (C₂₁), behenic acid (C₂₂),tricosylic acid (C₂₃), lignoceric acid (C₂₄), pentacosylic acid (C₂₅),cerotic acid (C₂₆), heptacosylic acid (C₂₇), montanic acid (C₂₈),nonacosylic acid (C₂₉), melissic acid (C₃₀), henatriacontylic acid(C₃₁), lacceroic acid (C₃₂), psyllic acid (C₃₃), geddic acid (C₃₄),ceroplastic acid (C₃₅) and hexatriacontylic acid (C₃₆), and mixturesthereof.

In one embodiment, the straight chain fatty acid is behenic acid (C₂₂).

Other exemplary fatty acids include, but are not limited to, isostearicacid (also known as isoactadecanoic acid) (C18), linoleic acid (C18),linolenic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), myristic acid (also known astetradecanoic acid) (C14), ricinoleic acid (C18), columbinic acid (C18),arachidic acid (also known as eicosanoic acid) (C20), arachidonic acid(C20), lignoceric acid (also known as tetracosanoic acid) (C24),nervonic acid (C24), eicosapentanoic acid (C20), palmitic acid (alsoknown as hexadecanoic acid) (C16), and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acids suitable for use herein can be obtained from naturalsources. For example, the fatty acids may be obtained from palm oil,rape seed oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, babassu oil, soybean oil,castor oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil,safflower oil, tallow, whale or fish oils, and mixtures thereof. Thefatty acids can also be synthetically prepared. Fatty acids can also beprepared from mixtures of natural or synthetic wax esters by use ofappropriate synthetic chemistry. Examples include Rice Bran Wax, etc.

In an embodiment, the phospholipid and the fatty acid are present in aweight ratio from about 5:1 to about 1:5. In another embodiment, thephospholipid and the fatty acid are present in a weight ratio from about2:1 to about 1:2. In yet another embodiment, the phospholipid and thefatty acid are present in a weight ratio from about 2:1 to about 1:1.

In an embodiment, the fatty alcohol and the fatty acid are present in aweight ratio from about 10:1 to about 1:1. In another embodiment, thefatty alcohol and the fatty acid are present in a weight ratio fromabout 8:1 to about 4:1.

In another embodiment, the fatty acid is present in an amount from about0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. In another embodiment, the fatty acid is present in anamount from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.5% toabout 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The fatty alcohol and the fatty acid may react to form an ester whenboth are present in the composition. In an embodiment, the ester, whenformed, is a cetyl behenate and/or behenyl behenate.

Ester of a Fatty Acid and a Fatty Alcohol

In an embodiment, the lamellar membrane structure further comprises anester of a branched or straight chain fatty acid and a branched orstraight chain fatty alcohol (“the ester”). It is recognized thatbecause there are two components to the ester, either one or both ofthem can be branched or straight chained components, e.g. the ester canbe mixed. For example, the fatty acid component may be branched and thefatty alcohol may be straight chained. Alternatively, the fatty acidcomponent may be straight chained and the fatty alcohol may be branched.In another embodiment, both the acid and the alcohol may be branched. Inyet another embodiment both the acid and the alcohol may be straightchained.

In an embodiment, the ester comprises a mixture of compounds havingmono- and poly-branching in the acid and alcohol originating parts ofthe ester. In one embodiment, the fatty acid and fatty alcohol are alkylbranched.

In an embodiment, when the composition comprises an ester of a branchedor straight chain fatty acid and a branched or straight chain fattyalcohol, the composition may further comprise a fatty acid.

In an embodiment, the branched fatty acid component of the ester is aC₁₂ to C₃₆ branched fatty acid, a C₁₂ to C₃₀ branched fatty acid, a C₁₄to C₂₆ branched fatty acid, a C₁₆ to C₂₂ branched fatty acid, or a C₁₈branched fatty acid.

Fatty acids suitable for use in the ester can be obtained from naturalsources or can also be synthetically prepared. For example, the fattyacids may be obtained from palm oil, rape seed oil, palm kernel oil,coconut oil, babassu oil, soybean oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, oliveoil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, safflower oil, tallow, whale or fishoils, grease, lard and mixtures thereof. The fatty acids can also besynthetically prepared. Relatively pure unsaturated fatty acids such asoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitoleic acid, and elaidicacid may be isolated, or relatively crude unsaturated fatty acidmixtures may be used as a basis for chemical modification.

Fatty acids suitable for use in the ester can be obtained from naturalsources or can also be synthetically prepared. For example, the fattyacids may be obtained from palm oil, rape seed oil, palm kernel oil,coconut oil, babassu oil, soybean oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, oliveoil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, safflower oil, tallow, whale or fishoils, grease, lard and mixtures thereof. Or they could have come frommixtures of wax esters that have been modified to be predominantly fattyacid mixtures (ester hydrolysis). The fatty acids can also besynthetically prepared. Relatively pure unsaturated fatty acids such asoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitoleic acid, and elaidicacid may be isolated, or relatively crude unsaturated fatty acidmixtures may be used as a basis for chemical modification.

Exemplary branched fatty acids for use in the ester include, but are notlimited to, iso-acids such as isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid,isomyristic acid, isoarachidic acid and isobehenic acid, neo-acids suchas neodecanioc acid, and/or anti-iso acids. In one embodiment, thebranched fatty acid for use in the ester is isostearic acid.

In an embodiment, the branched fatty alcohol component of the ester is aC₁₂ to C₃₆ branched fatty alcohol, a C₁₂ to C₃₀ branched fatty alcohol,a C₁₄ to C₂₆ branched fatty alcohol, a C₁₆ to C₂₂ branched fattyalcohol, or a C₁₈ branched fatty alcohol.

In another embodiment, the ester is an ester of a C₁₆ to C₂₂ branchedfatty acid and a C₁₆ to C₂₂ branched fatty alcohol. The branched fattyacid and branched fatty alcohol may comprise the same number of carbonatoms, or a different number of carbon atoms. In one embodiment, thebranched fatty acid and branched fatty alcohol comprise the same numberof carbon atoms.

The ester may comprise one or more variations selected from the groupcomprising mono-branched fatty acid and poly-branched fatty alcohol,mono-branched fatty acid and mono-branched fatty alcohol, poly-branchedfatty acid and mono-branched fatty alcohol, and poly-branched fatty acidand poly-branched fatty alcohol. The ester may be selected from thisgroup by any suitable separation method. For example, the selected estermay be selected from a mixture of esters using a clathration method.

Exemplary branched fatty alcohols for use in the ester include, but arenot limited to iso-alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol, isotetradecanol,isocetyl alcohol, isoarachidyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol andisolignoceryl alcohol; neo-alcohols such as neocapric alcohol; and/oranti-iso alcohols. In one embodiment, the fatty alcohol for use in theester is isostearyl alcohol.

In an embodiment, the ester is an ester of a C₁₂ to C₃₆ branched orstraight chain fatty acid and a C₁₂ to C₃₆ branched or straight chainfatty alcohol. In one embodiment, the fatty acid and the fatty alcoholare both branched. In another embodiment, the ester is an ester of a C₁₆to C₃₀ branched fatty acid and a C₁₆ to C₃₀ branched fatty alcohol. Inone embodiment, the fatty acid and the fatty alcohol are both branched.

In one embodiment, the ester comprises a C₁₈ mono- and/or poly-branchedfatty acid and a C₁₈ mono- and/or poly-branched fatty alcohol.

In an embodiment, the ester is isostearyl isostearate (“ISIS”).

In another embodiment, the ester is an ester of a C₁₆ to C₃₀ straightchain fatty acid and a C₁₆ to C₃₀ straight chain fatty alcohol.

In an embodiment, the ester is heptadecanoyl heptadecanoate (“HDHD”).

Suitably, the ester is present in the lamellar membrane blend in anamount from about 0.1% to about 75% by weight. In an embodiment, theester is present in an amount of about 1% to about 50% by weight. Inanother embodiment, the ester is present from about 5% to about 50% byweight. In another embodiment, the ester is present from about 5% toabout 35% by weight based on the total weight of the lamellar membraneblend. In one embodiment, the ester is present in the lamellar membraneblend in an amount from about 1% to about 25% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the lamellar membrane blend. In one embodiment the esteris present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based onthe total weight of the composition. In another embodiment the ester ispresent in an amount from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the phospholipid and the ester are present in a weightratio from about 5:1 to about 1:5. In another embodiment, thephospholipid and the ester are present in a weight ratio from about 2:1to about 1:2. In yet another embodiment, the phospholipid and the esterare present in a weight ratio from about 2:1 to about 1:1.

In an embodiment, the fatty alcohol and the ester are present in aweight ratio from about 10:1 to about 1:1. In another embodiment, thefatty alcohol and the ester are present in a weight ratio from about 8:1to about 4:1.

In an embodiment, the fatty acid and the ester are present in a weightratio from about 5:1 to about 1:5. In yet another embodiment, the fattyacid and the ester are present in a weight ratio from about 2:1 to about1:2. In a further embodiment, the fatty acid and the ester are presentat a weight ratio of about 1:1.

In an embodiment, the ester is present in an amount from about 0.1% toabout 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In oneembodiment, the ester is present in an amount from about 0.25% to about2.5% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition.

In a further embodiment, the weight ratio of phospholipid:fattyalcohol:fatty acid:ester is about 1.4:6.4:1:1.

Dermatologically Acceptable Excipients

The compositions of the invention may further comprise at least onedermatologically acceptable excipient.

In an embodiment, the dermatologically acceptable excipient is selectedfrom the group consisting of an antioxidant, a chelating agent, apreservative, a moisturizer, a humectant and a pH adjusting agent, andmixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the invention are free orsubstantially free of a conventional emulsifier.

Antioxidant

The compositions of the invention may further comprise an antioxidant.In an embodiment, the antioxidant is a mixture of two or moreantioxidants.

Antioxidants may protect the composition from oxidation (e.g. becomingrancid) and/or may also provide lip conditioning benefits uponapplication to the lips. Tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, some botanicalbutters, niacinamide, pterostilbene(trans-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxystilbene) magnolol, and green teaextracts, alone or in combination thereof are exemplary natural productantioxidants suitable for use in the compositions. Other suitableantioxidants include ascorbic acid and esters thereof such as ascorbylpalmitate, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole(BHA), propyl gallate, vitamin E TPGS, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid,resveratrol, 2,2-dimethyl chroman (Lipochroman®), singapine,tetrahydrocurcumin or other curcumin derivatives, hydroxytyrosol,Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate (Ronacare AP®),dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate (Chromabright®) or a combination ormixture thereof. It is recognized that a combination or mixture of allof these antioxidants is also suitable for use herein. In oneembodiment, the antioxidant is tocopherol, or a mixture of tocopheroland ascorbyl palmitate. In another embodiment, the antioxidant isniacinamide.

Suitably, the antioxidant is present in an amount from about 0.001% toabout 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Chelating Agents

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a chelatingagent. In an embodiment, the chelating agent is a mixture of two or morechelating agents.

Exemplary chelating agents include, but are not limited to, citric acid,glucuronic acid, sodium hexametaphosphate, zinc hexametaphosphate,ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid(EDDS), phosphorates, salts thereof, or a combination or mixturethereof.

In one embodiment, the chelating agent is EDTA or a salt thereof, suchas potassium, sodium or calcium salts of EDTA. In another embodiment,the chelating agent is EDDS or a salt thereof, such as potassium, sodiumor calcium salts of EDDS.

In one embodiment, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate.

Suitably, the chelating agent is present in an amount from about 0.05%to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preservative

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a preservative.In an embodiment, the preservative is a mixture of two or morepreservatives.

Exemplary preservatives include, but are not limited to, benzyl alcohol,diazolidinyl urea or other substituted ureas and hydantoin derivatives,methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben,phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, propylene glycol, pentyleneglycol, hexylene glycol, salts thereof, or a combination or mixturethereof.

In an embodiment, the preservative is a combination of non-conventionalpreservatives, such as capryloyl glycine, 1,2-hexanediol and otherglycols. Other suitable glycols include, but are not limited to,caprylyl glycol and/or pentylene glycol. In one embodiment, thepreservative is a mixture of pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol.

Suitably, these preservatives are present in an amount from about 0.01%to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Inanother embodiment, the preservative is present in an amount from about0.01% to about 2% by weight.

In one embodiment, the capryloyl glycine is present in an amount fromabout 0.5% to about 2% by weight and the additional glycols can be addedin amounts up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. Suitably, the preservative is a combination of at leastcapryloyl glycine and caprylyl glycol in an amount from about 0.5% toabout 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Moisturizer

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a moisturizer.Exemplary moisturizers useful in the present compositions include, butare not limited to, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butyleneglycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol,glycerin, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxyacids, ethoxylated and propoxylated polyols, polysaccharides, panthenol,sorbitol, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, such as sodium, potassiumor calcium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Suitably, the moisturizer is present in an amount from about 0.5% toabout 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Humectant

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a humectant.Exemplary humectants useful in the present compositions include, but arenot limited to, glycerin, betaine, sarcosine, panthenol, propyleneglycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, sorbitol and glucose, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the humectant is a mixture of glycerin and panthenol.

Suitably, the humectant is present in an amount from about 1% to about15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

pH Adjusting Agent

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a pH adjustingagent. In one embodiment, the pH adjusting agent is a base. Suitablebases include amines, bicarbonates, carbonates, and hydroxides such asalkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, as well as transition metalhydroxides. In an embodiment, the base is sodium hydroxide or potassiumhydroxide.

In another embodiment, the pH adjusting agent is an acid, an acid salt,or mixtures thereof. Suitably, the acid is selected from the groupconsisting of lactic acid, acetic acid, maleic acid, succinic acid,citric acid, benzoic acid, boric acid, sorbic acid, tartaric acid,edetic acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, ascorbic acid, dehydroaceticacid, malic acid, propionic acid, sulphuric acid and hydrochloric acid,or a combination or mixture thereof.

In yet another embodiment, the pH adjusting agent is a buffer. Suitably,the buffer is selected from the group consisting of citrate/citric acid,acetate/acetic acid, phosphate/phosphoric acid, propionate/propionicacid, lactate/lactic acid, carbonate/carbonic acid, ammonium/ammonia andedetate/edetic acid, or a combination or mixture thereof

Colorant

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a colorant thatimparts color to the composition. Colorants include, for example,natural colorants such as plant extracts, natural minerals, carmine,synthesized and/or processed colorant materials such as iron oxides,synthetic dyes, organic compounds, lake colorants, and FDA certifiedcolorants for use on the skin. The above list is not an exhaustive listof colorants and those of skill in the art may consider the use of othercolorants. Formulations of colorants are commercially available. Anexample of a commercially available colorant contains caprylic/caprictriglycerides (59.5%), titanium dioxide (39.6%), castor oil phosphate(0.5%) and triethoxycaprylylsilane (0.4%).

Sensate

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a sensate. Asensate is a composition that initiates a sensory perception such asheating or cooling, for example, when contacted with the skin. Exemplarysensates include, but are not limited to, mint extracts, cinnamonextract and capsaicin. Preferred sensates are derived from naturalsources. However, synthetic sensates are within the scope of thisinvention. Sensates typically have high potency and accordingly mayyield significant impact at low levels. Suitably, the sensate is presentin an amount from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.

Pharmaceutically Active Agent

The compositions of the invention may further comprise apharmaceutically acceptable active agent. Exemplary active agentsinclude, but are not limited to, an anti-inflammatory agent, anantibacterial agent, an antiviral agent, an antifungal agent, ananti-parasitic agent, a nutritional agent, a sunscreen, a sun block, andmixtures thereof. Suitably, the pharmaceutically active agent is presentin an amount from about 0.001% to about 30% by weight, depending on thenature of the active agent, the condition being treated, and thecomposition.

In one embodiment, the pharmaceutically active agent is ananti-inflammatory agent. Exemplary anti-inflammatory agents areniacinamide and N-acylalkanolamines including, but not limited to,lactamide monoethanolamide (MEA), oleamide MEA, acetamide MEA (AMEA),palmitioyl MEA (PMEA), N-acetylphosphatidylethanolamine,N-acetylethanolamine, N-oleoylethanolamine, N-linolenoylethanolamine,N-acylethanolamine, and N-acyl-2-hydroxy-propylamine.

In one embodiment, the N-acylalkanolamine is palmitidyl MEA (PMEA).

Suitably, the N-acylalkanolamine is present in an amount from about0.01% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.

In another embodiment, the anti-inflammatory agent is niacinamide.

Suitably, the niacinamide is present in an amount from about 0.01% toabout 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, the pharmaceutically active agent is a sunscreen.Suitably, the sunscreen is a UVA and/or UVB sunscreen. Suitably, thesunscreen is a combination of a UVA sunscreen and a UVB sunscreen.

Efficacious protection from UVA and UVB radiation requires the use ofsignificant amounts of sunscreen, and often a mixture of organicsunscreens, to achieve efficacious protection from both UVA and UVBradiation. UVB radiation, which is radiation in the wavelength range of290 nm-320 nm, has traditionally been characterized as the radiationthat causes sunburn. In addition, UVB radiation can decrease enzymaticand non-enzymatic antioxidants in the skin and impair the naturalprotective mechanisms in the skin, thereby contributing to DNA damageand potentially skin cancer. The dangers of UVA radiation, which isradiation in the wavelength range of 320 nm to 400 nm, have onlyrecently been recognized. Chronic exposure to UVA radiation can causedamage to gene P53 DNA, possibly leading to cancer. Additionally, thelonger UVA wavelengths allow for relatively deep penetration into theskin tissues causing damage to the elastic fibers and collagen whichgive skin its shape, thus causing wrinkling and eventually prematureskin aging. Thus, protecting the skin from UVA and UVB radiation isimportant for skin health and overall health more generally.

For purposes herein, wavelength range is as follows: UVA1: 340-400 nm,UVA2: 320-340 nm, and UVB: 290-. Suitable UVA1 and UVA2 filters include,but are not limited to, Avobenzone (Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane)(Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020), Bisdisulizole disodium (Neo Heliopan AP),Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinul A Plus), Drometrizoletrisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Menthyl anthranilate (Meradimate), oxybenzone,sulisobenzene and dioxybenzone, and mixtures thereof.

UVB filters include, but are not limited to, Amiloxate, 4-Aminobenzoicacid (PABA), Cinoxate, Ethylhexyl triazone/octyltriazone (Uvinul T 150),Homosalate, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), Octylmethoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) (Parsol MCX), Octyl salicylate/ethylhexylsalicylate (Octisalate), Padimate O (Escalol 507), Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (Ensulizole), Polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX), Enzacamene,and Trolamine salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

UVA+UVB filters include, but are not limited to, Bemotrizinol (TinosorbS), Benzophenones 1-12, Dioxybenzone, Terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid (Ecamsule) (Mexoryl SX), Diethylhexyl butamidotriazone/Iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), Octocrylene, Oxybenzone (Eusolex4360), Benzophenone-4(Sulisobenzone), Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M),Heliolex (a combination of avobenzone and oxybenzone),Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), Benzophenone-8, andmixtures thereof.

Other exemplary sunscreens useful in the present invention (with maximumsuitable amounts of each sunscreen in % wt/wt) include, but are notlimited to, amino benzoic acid (about 15%), Avobenzone (about 3%), theCinnamates, such as but not limited to cinoxate (about 3%), and octylmethoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) (about 10%), the Salicylates, such as butnot limited to homosalate (about 15%), meradimate (about 5%),octocrylene (about 10%), ethylhexyl salicylate (also known as octylsalicylate or octisalate) (about 5%), oxybenzone (about 6%),dioxybenzone (about 3%), Octyldimethyl PABA (Padimate O) (about 8%),p-amyldimethyl PABA (Padimate A) (about 3%), Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (ensulizole)(about 4%), sulisobenzene (about 10%),trolamine salicylate (about 12%), benzophenone (about 10%), benzylidinecompounds, such as 4-methylbenzylidine camphor (Parsol 5000) (about 6%),butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (about 5%), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine (Bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S) (about 10%), camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate (about 6%), diethyl amino hydroxy benzoylhexyl benzoate (Uvinul A plus) (about 10%), diethylhexyl butamidotriazine (Uvasorb HEB) (about 10%), disodium phenyl dibenzylmidazoletetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium or NeoHeliopan AP) (about 10%),drometrizole trisiloxane (silatriazole or Mexoryl XL) (about 15%),ethylhexyl dimethyl para-amino benzoic acid (about 8%), ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate (about 10%), ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) (about5%), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (about 10%), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor(about 10%), methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol(Bisoctrizole or Tinosorb M) (about 10%), PEG-25 paramainobenzoic acid(about 5%), phenylbenziamido methylbenzylidene camphor (about 6%),diisopropyl methyl cinnamate (about 10%),dimethoxyphenyl-[1-(3,4)-4,4-dimethyl]1,3 pentanedione (about 7%),ethylhexyl dimethyloxy benzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate (about3%), ferulic acid (about 10%), glyceryl ethylhexanoatedimethoxycinnamate (about 10%), glycerol para-aminobenzoic acid (about10%), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (about 3%) and Parsol SLX(benzylidene malonate polysiloxane), and mixtures thereof. The amountslisted in the preceding list are for each sunscreen individually. Insome embodiments in which a combination or mixture of sunscreens isused, the total combined amount of a sunscreen may be less or equal tothe sum of the maximum suitable amounts for each individual sunscreen.

As used herein, the term “Cinnamates”, include but are not limited tooctinoxate, cinoxate, and isoamyl p-methoxy cinnamate, and glycerylethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

As used herein, the term “Salicylates” include but are not limited tooctisalate, homosalate, and trolamine salicylate.

As used herein, the term “Benzophenones” includes oxybenzone,sulisobenzone, and dioxybenzone.

As used herein, the term “PABA and derivatives” includes PABA(p-aminobenzoic acid), Octyldimethyl PABA (Padimate O), p-amyldimethylPABA (Padimate A), Ethyl 4[bis(hydroxypropyl)] aminobenzoate, andglyceryl PABA.

Avobenzone, and benzophenones, as well as some other sunscreens, arephoto unstable. Therefore these sunscreens are frequently combined withother sunscreens or stabilizers to increase the photostability of thefinal product. Some suitable photo stabilizers also referred to hereinas boosters, include, but are not limited to Octocrylene, Diethylhexyl2,6-naphthalate, and Diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate. In oneembodiment, the photostabilizer is Diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate.

Although a single sunscreen may be used in a composition, typically acombination of sunscreens will be used as each sunscreen has acharacteristic wavelength range in which it absorbs UV radiation (UVR)and typically that range is less than the entire range for whichprotection is desired. Thus, use of a combination of sunscreens providesprotection over a wider range of wavelengths. Additionally, efficacy ofprotection is also related to the amount of sunscreen. As regulatoryagencies limit the amount of each sunscreen that can be used, the use ofmultiple sunscreens improves the SPF while maintaining regulatorycompliance.

Organic sunscreens and their efficacious wavelength range (along withsuitable amounts) are as follows: amino benzoic acid (260 nm-313 nm,about 5% to about 15%); padimate 0 (290 nm-315 nm, about 1.4% to about8%); dioxybenzone (260 nm-380 nm, about 1% to about 3%); oxybenzone (270nm-350 nm, about 2% to about 6%); sulisobenzone (260 nm-375 nm, about 5%to about 10%); cinoxate (270 nm-328 nm, about 1% to about 3%);octocrylene (250 nm-360 nm, about 7% to about 10%); Avobenzone (320nm-400 nm, about 1% to about 3%); octyl salicylate (280 nm-320 nm, about3% to about 5%); homosalate (295 nm-315 nm, about 4% to about 15%);trolamine salicylate (260 nm-320 nm, about 5% to about 12%); octinoxate(290 nm-320 nm, about 2% to about 7.5%).

In one embodiment, at least two sunscreens are used where the firstsunscreen has an efficacious wavelength range that includes about 280 nmto about 315 nm and the second sunscreen has an efficacious wavelengthrange that includes about 315 nm to about 400 nm. In one embodiment, theat least one UVA sunscreen is Avobenzone, and/or Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinul A Plus).

In an embodiment, the at least one UVB sunscreen is Ethylhexyl triazone(Uvinul T 150), Octyl methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), and/or Octylsalicylate (Octisalate), alone or in mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one sunscreen which is a UVA+UVB filteris Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), Iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), Octocrylene,and Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the sunfilters include a combination of Bemotrizinol,Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate,an optionally Tinosorb A2B.

In another embodiment, the sunfilters include a combination of TinosorbS, Tinosorb M, and Octyl methoxycinnamate.

In another embodiment, the sunfilters include a combination of TinosorbS, Tinosorb M, Octyl methoxycinnamate, and Uvinul A Plus.

In an embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structure comprises(i) a phospholipid; (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) an ester of a C₁₂ toC₃₆ branched or straight chain fatty acid and a C₁₂ to C₃₆ branched orstraight chain fatty alcohol.

In an embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structure comprises(i) a phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% byweight, and (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount from about 2% toabout 15% by weight, and wherein all percentages are based on the totalweight of the composition.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% toabout 2.5% by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount fromabout 2% to about 10% by weight, and (iii) a fatty acid present in anamount from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, and wherein allpercentages are based on the total weight of the composition.

In yet another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% toabout 2.5% by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount fromabout 2% to about 7.5% by weight, (iii) a fatty acid present in anamount from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, and (iv) an ester of abranched fatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol present in an amountfrom about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, and wherein all percentagesare based on the total weight of the composition.

In yet another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% toabout 2.5% by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount fromabout 2% to about 7.5% by weight, and (iii) an ester of a branched fattyacid and a branched fatty alcohol present in an amount from about 0.25%to about 2.5% by weight, and wherein all percentages are based on thetotal weight of the composition.

Accordingly, in an embodiment, the invention provides a topicaloil-in-water emulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% by        weight, and (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount from about        2% to about 15% by weight; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the        modWVTR test methodology, and wherein all percentages are based        on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 2.5%        by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount from about        2% to about 10% by weight, and (iii) a fatty acid present in an        amount from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the        modWVTR test methodology, and wherein all percentages are based        on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 2.5%        by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount from about        2% to about 7.5% by weight, (iii) a fatty acid present in an        amount from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, and (iv) an        ester of a branched fatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol        present in an amount from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight;        and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr′ measured in vitro using the        modWVTR test methodology, and wherein all percentages are based        on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 2.5%        by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an amount from about        2% to about 7.5% by weight, and (iii) an ester of a branched        fatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol present in an amount        from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using        the modWVTR test methodology, and wherein all percentages are        based on the total weight of the composition.

In yet another embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid which is hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, (ii)        behenyl alcohol, (iii) behenic acid, and (iv) isostearyl        isostearate; and wherein in use the composition has a water        vapor transmission rate of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹        measured in vitro using the modWVTR test methodology.

In a further embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i)        hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, and (ii) a mixture of behenyl        alcohol and cetyl alcohol, (iii) behenic acid, and (iv)        isostearyl isostearate; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the        modWVTR test methodology.

In one embodiment, the invention provides a topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i)        hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine present in an amount from about        0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, (ii) a fatty alcohol present in an        amount from about 2% to about 7.5% by weight, which is a mixture        of cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, (iii) a fatty acid present        in an amount from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, which is        behenic acid, and (iv) an ester of branched fatty acid and a        branched fatty alcohol present in an amount from about 0.25% to        about 2.5% by weight, which is isostearyl isostearate; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using        the modWVTR test methodology, and wherein all percentages are        based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structure comprises(i) a phospholipid and (ii) a straight chain C₁₂-C₃₆ fatty alcohol.

In an embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structure comprises(i) a phospholipid, (ii) a straight or branched chain C₁₂-C₃₆ fattyalcohol, and (iii) a second straight or branched chain C₁₂-C₃₆ fattyalcohol.

In another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) at least one straight or branchedchain C₁₂-C₃₆ fatty alcohol, and (iii) a straight chain C₁₂-C₃₆ fattyacid.

In yet another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a straight or branched chain C₁₂-C₃₆fatty alcohol, (iii) a straight or branched chain C₁₂-C₃₆ fatty acid,and (iv) an ester of a C₁₂ to C₃₀ straight or branched fatty acid andC₁₂ to C₃₀ straight or branched fatty alcohol.

In yet another embodiment, the at least one lamellar membrane structurecomprises (i) a phospholipid, (ii) a straight or branched chain C₁₂-C₃₆fatty alcohol, and (iii) a second straight or branched chain C₁₂-C₃₆fatty alcohol, and (iii) an ester of a C₁₂ to C₃₀ straight or branchedfatty acid and Cu to C₃₀ straight or branched fatty alcohol.

In all of the above embodiments, the composition may further comprise atleast one dermatologically acceptable excipient selected from anantioxidant, a chelating agent, a preservative, a colorant, a sensate, amoisturizer, a humectant, a pH adjusting agent, a pharmaceuticallyacceptable agent, and combinations and mixtures thereof.

Methods of Treatment

Another embodiment of the disclosure is a method for moisturizing, andprotecting, repairing, or restoring the skin lipid barrier of a mammal,the method comprising applying to the skin of the mammal in need thereofan effective amount of a topical oil-in-water emulsion compositioncomprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using        the modWVTR test methodology. In one embodiment, the composition        further comprises an ester of a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid.

A further embodiment of the disclosure is a method for forming anocclusive layer on the skin, the method comprising applying to the skinof a mammal in need thereof an effective amount of a topicaloil-in-water emulsion composition comprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol, and (iii) a fatty acid; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using        the modWVTR test methodology. In one embodiment, the composition        further comprises an ester of a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid

Another embodiment of the disclosure is a method for moisturizing, andprotecting, repairing, or restoring the skin lipid barrier of a mammal,the method comprising applying to the skin of the mammal in need thereofan effective amount of a topical oil-in-water emulsion compositioncomprising:

-   -   (a) a discontinuous oil phase;    -   (b) a continuous aqueous phase comprising water;    -   (c) a thickening agent;    -   (d) at least one lamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a        phospholipid, (ii) a fatty alcohol and (iii) a second fatty        alcohol; and        wherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission        rate of less than about 70 g·m²·hr′ measured in vitro using the        modWVTR test methodology. In one embodiment, the composition        further comprises an ester of a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid

The protection and repair of the skin lipid barrier by the compositionsof the present invention improves the skin barrier function and conveysnumerous additional therapeutic effects to a mammal to which thecompositions are applied.

In one embodiment of the disclosure, the compositions described hereinprovide moisturization to the skin.

The compositions of the invention are applied to the skin at a frequencyconsistent with the condition of the skin. For example, where the skinis irritated and in need of repair, more frequent application may berequired. Alternatively, where the skin is not irritated and thecomposition is being applied to merely protect the barrier function ofthe skin, less frequent application may be possible.

It should be noted that the present formulations do not include as anecessary excipient a traditional surfactant. Thus in one embodiment,the formulations of the present invention can include small amounts,e.g., 0.5%, less than 0.4%, less than 0.3%, less than 0.2%, less than0.1% w/w, and no 0.0% w/w of a traditional surfactant. As such this ismeant an anionic, cationic, non-ionic and zwiterionic surfactant.

Traditional anionic surfactants include ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodiumlauryl sulfate (sodium dodecyl sulfate, SLS, or SDS), and the relatedalkyl-ether sulfates sodium laureth sulfate (sodium lauryl ether sulfateor SLES), docusate (dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate),perfluorooctanesulfonate (PFOS), alkyl-aryl ether phosphates and alkylether phosphates. Traditional cationic surfactants include cetrimoniumbromide (CTAB), cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC), and benzalkoniumchloride (BAC). Traditional zwiterionic surfactants includecocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, and cocamidopropyl betaine. Traditionalnon-ionic surfactants include polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers (such asBrij); polypropylene glycol alkyl ethers; glucoside alkyl ethers, suchas decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and octyl glucoside; polyethyleneglycol octylphenyl ethers, such as Triton X-100; polyethylene glycolalkylphenyl ethers, such as Nonoxynol-9; Glycerol alkyl esters, such asglyceryl laurate; polyoxyethylene glycol sorbitan alkyl esters, such asthe polysorbates; the sorbitan alkyl esters, such as the spams; and theblock copolymers of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, e.g.the poloxamers.

Definitions

As used herein the term “long chain” or “fatty” such as used inreference to “fatty alcohol” or “fatty acid”, etc. refers to ahydrocarbon backbone chain which may be straight or branched, saturatedor unsaturated, and is suitably composed of 12 to 36 carbon atoms. Inone embodiment, the chain is 16 to 26 carbon atoms. In anotherembodiment the chain is 16 to 22 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, thechain is 22 to 30 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, the chain is 16 to 26carbon atoms. In another embodiment the chain is 16 to 22 carbon atoms.In another embodiment, the chain is 20 to 22 carbon atoms. In anotherembodiment, the chain is from 20 to 30 carbon atoms, suitably 22 to 30carbon atoms. In another embodiment the chain is from 22 to 28 carbonatoms.

The term “applying” as used herein refers to any method which, in soundmedical or cosmetic practice, delivers the topical composition to theskin of a subject in such a manner so as to provide a positive effect ona dermatological disorder, condition, or appearance.

As used herein, the phrase an “effective amount” or a “therapeuticallyeffective amount” refers to an amount of a composition or componentthereof sufficient enough to have a positive effect on the area ofapplication. Accordingly, these amounts are sufficient to modify theskin disorder, condition, or appearance to be treated but low enough toavoid serious side effects, within the scope of sound medical advice. Aneffective amount will cause a substantial relief of symptoms whenapplied repeatedly over time. Effective amounts will vary with theparticular condition or conditions being treated, the severity of thecondition, the duration of the treatment, and the specific components ofthe composition being used.

An “effective amount” of a sunscreen is an amount of sunscreensufficient to provide measurable protection from solar radiation asdetermined by having a measurable Sun Protection Factor (SPF) valueand/or UVA protection value.

The term “SPF” (Sun Protection Factor) means the UVB energy required toproduce a minimal erythema dose on sunscreen treated skin divided by theUVB energy required to produce a minimal erythema dose on unprotectedskin.

The term “about” means within an acceptable range for the particularparameter specified as determined by one of ordinary skill in the art,which will depend, in part, on how the value is measured or determined,i.e. the limitations of the measurement system. For example, “about” canmean a range of up to 10% of a given value.

As used herein, the phrase “salts thereof” refers to salts that arepharmaceutically acceptable. Such salts include: (1) acid additionsalts, formed with acids such as, for example, acetic acid, benzoicacid, citric acid, gluconic acid, glutamic acid, glutaric acid, glycolicacid, hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, maleic acid, malic acid, malonicacid, mandelic acid, phosphoric acid, propionic acid, sorbic acid,succinic acid, sulfuric acid, tartaric acid, naturally and syntheticallyderived amino acids, and mixtures thereof; or (2) salts formed when anacidic proton present in the parent compound is either (i) replaced by ametal ion e.g. an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, or analuminium ion; or (ii) protonates an organic base such as, for example,ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine andN-methylglucamine.

“%” as used herein, refers to the percentage by weight. All percentagesare based on the percent by weight of the final composition preparedunless otherwise indicated and all totals equal 100% by weight.

The term “wt/wt” or “by weight”, unless otherwise indicated, means theweight of a given component or specified combination of components tothe total weight of the composition expressed as a percentage.

As used herein, moles, is a measure of the amount of a chemical speciesbased upon its molecular weight. No. of moles=Mass/Molar Mass.

Mole % (mol %) is simply the number of moles of a given lamellar formingcomponent used in a formulation relative to the total number of moles ofall stated lamellar forming species, expressed as a percentage.

As used herein, the term “sensitive skin” refers to the degree of skinirritation or skin inflammation, as exemplified by parameters insuitable assays for measuring sensitivity, inflammation or irritation.

As used herein, the term “phytosterol” refers to plant sterols and plantstanols. Plant sterols are naturally occurring cholesterol-likemolecules found in plants, with the highest concentrations occurring invegetable oils. Plant stanols are hydrogenation compounds of therespective plant sterols. Phytosterols are natural components of commonvegetable oils.

It should be understood that the terms “a” and “an” as used herein referto “one or more” or “at least one” of the enumerated components. It willbe clear to one of ordinary skill in the art that the use of thesingular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise.

The term “and/or” as used herein covers both additively and alsoalternatively the individual elements of a list which are thus linked sothat these elements are to be understood as linked selectively with“and” or respectively with “or”. Furthermore, the terms used in thesingular of course also comprise the plural.

Throughout the application, descriptions of various embodiments use“comprising” language, however in some specific instances, an embodimentcan be described using the language “consisting essentially of” or“consisting of”.

“Substantially free” of a specified component refers to a compositionwith less than about 1% by weight of the specified component. “Free” ofa specified component refers to a composition where the specifiedcomponent is absent.

As used herein, the term “sensitive skin” refers to the degree of skinirritation or skin inflammation, as exemplified by parameters insuitable assays for measuring sensitivity, inflammation or irritation.

As used herein, “mammal” includes, but is not limited to, humans,including pediatric, adult and geriatric patients.

As used herein, “treat” in reference to a condition means: (1) toameliorate or prevent the condition or one or more of the biologicalmanifestations of the condition, (2) to interfere with (a) one or morepoints in the biological cascade that leads to or is responsible for thecondition or (b) one or more of the biological manifestations of thecondition, (3) to alleviate one or more of the symptoms or effectsassociated with the condition, or (4) to slow the progression of thecondition or one or more of the biological manifestations of thecondition.

As indicated above, “treatment” of a condition includes prevention ofthe condition. The skilled artisan will appreciate that “prevention” isnot an absolute term. In medicine, “prevention” is understood to referto the prophylactic administration of a drug to substantially diminishthe likelihood or severity of a condition or biological manifestationthereof, or to delay the onset of such condition or biologicalmanifestation thereof.

As used herein, “pharmaceutically acceptable excipient” means apharmaceutically acceptable material, composition or vehicle involved ingiving form or consistency to the pharmaceutical composition. Eachexcipient must be compatible with the other ingredients of thepharmaceutical composition when commingled such that interactions whichwould substantially reduce the efficacy of the compound of the inventionwhen administered to an individual and interactions which would resultin pharmaceutical compositions that are not pharmaceutically acceptableare avoided. In addition, each excipient must of course be ofsufficiently high purity to render it pharmaceutically-acceptable.

A designation that a substance is a semisolid, should be taken to meanthe physical state of the substance in the temperature range of about20° C. to about 40° C.

The term “organic sunscreen” means a compound or mixture of compoundsthat can protect human skin from UVA and/or UVB radiation and is theclass of compounds classified by those skilled in the art of chemistryas organic chemicals.

The term “inorganic sunscreen” means a compound or mixture of compoundsthat can protect human skin from UVA and/or UVB radiation and is theclass of compounds classified by those skilled in the art of chemistryas inorganic chemicals. Exemplary inorganic sunscreens include, but arenot limited to, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

The following examples are illustrative of the present invention and arenot intended to be limitations thereon.

Other terms used herein are meant to be defined by their well-knownmeanings in the art.

EXAMPLES Example 1—Preparation and Characterization of CompositionsContaining Phosphatidylcholine in Combination with Other Components

Formulations 1-13 shown in Tables 2-4 were prepared based on thefollowing cream composition shown in Table 1. This formulation is arepresentative starting point for the various changes made in Tables2-4. This formulation is only a comparative formulation and not onecovered by the present invention.

TABLE 1 Ingredients % Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 Diacaprylylcarbonate 2.50 Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 0.50 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/0.20 sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer Glycerin 10.00Hydroxyacetophenone 0.50 Pentylene glycol 5.00 Sodium hyaluronate 0.10Niacinamide 3.00 D-Panthenol 1.40 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate0.10 Water 71.70 100.00

TABLE 2 Ingredients 1 2 3 4 5 Caprylic/capric triglyceride Diacaprylylcarbonate 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Cetyl alcohol 2.03 3.62 1.67Phosphatidylcholine 2.86 1.14 1.69 3.01 1.40 Isostearyl isostearate 5.942.17 Behenic acid 2.17 1.00 Behenyl alcohol 5.49 5.08 4.73 Water 67.9067.90 67.90 67.90 67.90 Glycerin 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00Hydroxyacetophenone 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Pentylene glycol 5.00 5.005.00 5.00 5.00 Sodium hyaluronate 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Niacinamide3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 D-Panthenol 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 Trisodium0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 ethylenediamine disuccinate Polyacrylate 0.500.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 crosspolymer-6 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/ 0.20 0.20 0.200.20 0.20 sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 100.0 100.0 100.0100.0 100.0 Observed WVTR 91.29 85.60 65.66 67.58 62.55 (g · m⁻² · hr⁻¹)

TABLE 3 Ingredients 6 7 8 9 10 Caprylic/capric triglyceride Diacaprylylcarbonate 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Cetyl alcohol 1.50 1.67Phosphatidylcholine 1.40 1.01 1.40 1.25 1.39 Isostearyl isostearate 0.905.03 0.90 Behenic acid 0.90 2.77 0.90 0.90 1.00 Glyceryl monobehenate4.25 Behenyl alcohol 4.73 Water 73.40 67.90 74.40 67.90 67.91 Glycerin10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.500.50 Pentylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Sodium hyaluronate 0.100.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Niacinamide 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 D-Panthenol1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 Trisodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10ethylenediamine disuccinate Polyacrylate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50crosspolymer-6 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/ 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 sodiumacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0Observed WVTR 88.90 94.30 100.46 67.32 55.80 (g · m⁻² · hr⁻¹)

TABLE 4 Ingredients 11 12 13 Caprylic/capric triglyceride Diacaprylylcarbonate 2.50 2.50 2.50 Cetyl alcohol 1.67 Phosphatidylcholine 1.391.51 1.72 Isostearyl isostearate 1.00 1.08 Behenic acid 1.08 1.24Behenyl alcohol 4.73 5.12 5.84 Water 67.90 67.90 67.90 Glycerin 10.0010.00 10.00 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.50 0.50 0.50 Pentylene glycol 5.005.00 5.00 Sodium hyaluronate 0.10 0.10 0.10 Niacinamide 3.00 3.00 3.00D-Panthenol 1.40 1.40 1.40 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.100.10 0.10 Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydroxyethylacrylate/ 0.20 0.20 0.20 sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer100.00 100.00 100.00 Observed WVTR (g · m⁻² · hr⁻¹) 89.68 43.58 55.51

It should be noted that Formulations 1, 2, 6, 7, 8 and 11 shown in Table2-4 while novel, do not meet the threshold water vapor transmission rateof less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTRtest methodology as described herein.

Calculation of Mol % for Formulations 1-13

The number of moles of each component of the at least one lamellarmembrane structure was calculated using the formula:Moles=mass/molar mass (molecular weight)

Once the number of moles is known for each component of the at least onelamellar membrane structure, this can be expressed as the Mol %, asfollows:Mol %=number of moles of component X/total number of moles of componentsof lamellar membrane structure

The number of moles or Mol % of two of more components may also beexpressed as a ratio.

Formulations 1-4

TABLE 5 Mass Lamellar Ingredients Mol Wt 1 2 3 4 Cetyl alcohol 242.4412.03 3.62 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 2.86 1.14 1.69 3.01 Isostearylisostearate 536.96 5.94 2.17 Behenic acid 369.3099 2.17 Behenyl alcohol322.6 5.49 5.08

TABLE 6 Moles Ingredients Mol Wt 1 2 3 4 Cetyl alcohol 242.441 0 00.008373171 0.014931468 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 0.0036195660.001442764 0.002138834 0.003809403 Isostearyl isostearate 536.960.011062277 0.004041269 0 0 Behenic acid 369.3099 0 0 0 0.005875824Behenyl alcohol 322.6 0 0.017017979 0.015747055 0 Total 0.0146818420.022502012 0.026259061 0.024616695 Moles

TABLE 7 Mol % Mol % Mol Wt 1 2 3 4 Cetyl alcohol 242.441 0 0 31.8867886260.65585869 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 24.65334936 6.4117111468.145129091 15.47487689 Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 75.3466506417.95959095 0 0 Behenic acid 369.3099 0 0 0 23.86926442 Behenyl alcohol322.6 0 75.6286979 59.96808229 0 100 100 100 100Formulations 5-8

TABLE 8 Mass Lamellar Ingredients Mol Wt 5 6 7 8 Cetyl alcohol 242.4411.67 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 1.4 1.4 1.01 1.4 Isostearyl isostearate536.96 0.9 5.03 Behenic acid 369.3099 1 0.9 2.77 0.9 Behenyl alcohol322.6 4.73

TABLE 9 Moles Ingredients Mol Wt 5 6 7 8 Cetyl alcohol 242.4410.006888274 0 0 0 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 0.001771815 0.0017718150.001278238 0.001771815 Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 0 0.0016761030.009367551 0 Behenic acid 369.3099 0.002707753 0.002436978 0.0075004760.002436978 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 0.01466212 0 0 0 Total 0.0260299630.005884896 0.018146265 0.004208793 Moles

TABLE 10 Mol % Mol % Mol Wt 5 6 7 8 Cetyl alcohol 242.441 26.46286492 00 0 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 6.806830665 30.10784841 7.04408493842.09794572 Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 0 28.48143088 51.6224729 0Behenic acid 369.3099 10.40244685 41.41072071 41.33344216 57.90205428Behenyl alcohol 322.6 56.32785757 0 0 0 100 100 100 100Formulations 9-12

TABLE 11 Mass Lamellar Ingredients Mol Wt 9 10 11 12 Cetyl alcohol242.441 1.5 1.67 1.67 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 1.25 1.39 1.39 1.51Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 0.9 1 1.08 Behenic acid 369.3099 0.9 11.08 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 4.73 4.73 5.12 Glyceryl 414.662 4.25Monobehenate

TABLE 12 Moles Ingredients Mol Wt 9 10 11 12 Cetyl alcohol 242.4410.006187072 0.006888274 0.006888274 0 Phosphatidylcholine 790.150.001581978 0.00175916 0.00175916 0.00191103 Isostearyl isostearate536.96 0.001676103 0 0.001862336 0.002011323 Behenic acid 369.30990.002436978 0.002707753 0 0.002924373 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 0 0.014662120.01466212 0.015871048 Glyceryl 414.662 0.010249311 0 0 0 MonobehenateTotal 0.022131442 0.026017307 0.02517189 0.022717774 Moles

TABLE 13 Mol % Mol %'s Mol Wt 9 10 11 12 Cetyl alcohol 242.44127.95602871 26.47573748 27.3649451 0 Phosphatidylcholine 790.157.148102213 6.761497901 6.988587909 8.412045952 Isostearyl isostearate536.96 7.573399385 0 7.398475532 8.853521662 Behenic acid 369.309911.0113824 10.40750701 0 12.87262267 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 0 56.3552576158.24799146 69.86180971 Glyceryl 414.662 46.31108729 0 0 0 Monobehenate100 100 100 100Formulation 13

TABLE 14 Mass Lamellar Ingredients Mol Wt 13 Cetyl alcohol 242.441Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 1.72 Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 Behenicacid 369.3099 1.24 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 5.84 Glyceryl Monobehenate414.662

TABLE 15 Moles Ingredients Mol Wt 13 Cetyl alcohol 242.441 0Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 0.002176802 Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 0Behenic acid 369.3099 0.003357614 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 0.018102914Glyceryl Monobehenate 414.662 0 Total Moles 0.023637329

TABLE 16 Mol % Mol % Mol Wt 13 Cetyl alcohol 242.441 0Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 9.209170086 Isostearyl isostearate 536.96 0Behenic acid 369.3099 14.20470854 Behenyl alcohol 322.6 76.58612138Glyceryl Monobehenate 414.662 0 100Method of Preparation

Formulations 1-13 were prepared using a simple “single pot” process, asfollows:

-   -   1. Add all components (except polymer) to a reaction vessel and        heat to 85° C. (+/−3° C.).    -   2. Add polymer and homogenize at 12,000 rpm until a temperature        of 60° C. is reached.    -   3. Place reaction vessel in a water bath of freshly drawn water.        Homogenize and cool composition to a temperature of 40° C.    -   4. Adjust pH to 5.5 (+/−0.3).    -   5. Added water to compensate for evaporative losses.    -   6. Re-homogenize for 2 minutes.        Measurement of Water Vapor Transmission Rate

The ability of the compositions to form an occlusive layer on the skinwas evaluated by measuring the water vapor transmission rate (WVTR). Thefollowing method, based upon Pennick et al., Intl J Cosmetic Sci, 2012,34, p 567-574, and G. Pennick, et al., Int J Cosmet Sci, 32 (2010)304-312; with minor changes as noted below was used. This method isreferenced herein (and in the claims) as “modWVTR test methodology”.This paper also describes a suitable means for testing LamellarThickness.

-   -   1. Vitro-Skin (IMS Inc., Portland, Me.) was cut into circular        discs using a hole-punch. The discs were weighed on an        analytical balance (not Vitro-Corneum as in the Pennick et al.        paper.)    -   2. The discs were taped on opposing edges, rough side up, with        adhesive tape and fixed to the glass surface of a pneumatic        drive (Byko Drive). A weighted bar was placed on the drive arm        and a 50 μm gauge block placed in front of the weighted bar.    -   3. The test cream was applied in front of the gauge block, such        that when the pneumatic arm is actuated a thin film of cream is        applied to the surface including the taped Vitro-Skin disc.        Typically 4 discs were coated in a single pass of the arm. The        button was depressed and the first coat of the disc occurred.        The coated discs were left for 8-10 minutes.    -   4. The adhesive tape was carefully removed and the discs placed        onto a mesh drying tray at room temperature. The surface of the        drive unit was cleaned and then the process (steps 1-3) repeated        for the next samples.    -   5. Once all the samples had received their initial coat of        cream, the first (and most dry samples) was secured in place for        a second application of cream perpendicular to the first coat.        The discs were then removed and allowed to partially dry for 60        minutes. The process was repeated for the other samples.    -   6. The coated discs were reweighed and the weight of applied        cream determined.    -   7. Following partial drying, the WVTR cells were filled with 190        μL of deionized water. The discs were then secured in place over        the water, coated side up, using the upper portion of the WVTR        cell which was screwed into place. The loaded cells were then        reweighed to give the initial weight. The WVTR cells are        commercially available from Payne Cells from SMS (Surface        Measurement Systems, UK).    -   8. The WVTR cells were placed in a desiccator over silica gel        desiccant. Relative humidity was typically 24-28% RH. The cells        were removed periodically.    -   9. Weight values were determined over a 45-240 minute period.        WVTR was calculated using the standard WVTR formula described by        Pennick et al (Intl. J. Cosmetic Sci., vol. 34, pp 567-574,        2012). Non-normalized WVTR values were obtained.    -   The WVTR was calculated by the formula

$\begin{matrix}{{{WVTR}\left( {g \cdot m^{2} \cdot {hr}^{- 1}} \right)} = \frac{{Water}\mspace{14mu}{{Loss}(g)}\left( {W_{0.75} - W_{3.0}} \right)}{{Area}\mspace{14mu}{of}\mspace{14mu}{Membrane}\mspace{14mu}\left( m^{2} \right) \times \mspace{95mu}{Time}\mspace{11mu}(h)}} & {{Formula}\mspace{14mu} 1}\end{matrix}$

-   -   The area of the membrane was 1.22×10⁴ m². W_(0.75) and W_(3.0)        were the WVTR cell weights in grams at the 0.75 and 3 hour time        points respectively.        Characterization Using X-Ray defractionS

Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and wide angle X-ray scattering(WAXS) data of undried and dried creams at ambient temperature wascollected with a SAXSLAB Ganesha SAXS/MAXS/WAXS system at the SharedMaterials Instrumentation Facility (SMIF), Duke University, Durham, N.C.The Ganesha uses an X-ray point source. SAXS data was collected in a2-slit mode with the sample-detector distance equal to 441 mm, a 2 mmbeam stop, and aperture size=0.9-0.4 mm. WAXS data was collected in a2-slit mode with a sample—detector distance=101 mm, a 2 mm beam stop,and an aperture size=0.9 mm. Samples were loaded into SAXSLAB “buttoncells” equipped with 5-7 microns thick mica windows and an approximatepathlength of 1 mm. Data was not mathematically desmeared.

Additional SAXS data was collected with an Anton Paar SAXSess mc2 systemusing an Anton Parr paste cell (pathlength of approximately 0.7 mm) withpolycarbonate windows. The paste cell comes in two halves and one of thehalves was loaded with cream. The other half was sealed with an O-ringto the filled halve. The Anton Parr system uses an X-ray line source, asemitransparent beamstop, and a 1D detector with a sample—detectordistance of 306.8 mm. The resulting desmeared data was desmeared withAnton Parr software. The Ganesha data were collected at 15 seconds perframe with a 2D detector and the Anton Parr data were collected at 10seconds per frame. The total data collection time for each run was 30minutes. Both systems used copper K-alpha radiation.

Samples were analyzed wet and dried. Dried samples were prepared bydrying approximately 1 mm thick creams in a SAXSLAB button cell forapproximately 11 hours while stored in a chamber purged with nitrogengas and by drying approximately 0.7 mm thick creams in a Anton Parrpaste cell for 3 hours in the same chamber. Percent weight losses fromdrying were approximately 60.

The undried and dried samples prepared for the Anton Parr runs weretemperature controlled to 25° C. and 32° C., respectively. The driedsamples were run at 32° C. to simulate the conditions the cream wouldexperience after applying to the skin and letting the rubbed-in creamdry.

Data was exported in PDH format and reformatted in Excel and importedinto PANalytical HighScorePlus software. The data was then stripped ofthe copper K-alpha 2 contribution. The background was modelled, peakslocated, and profile fitted (PROFIT).

Characterization Using FTIR

Each formulated cream was analyzed by transmission FTIR in triplicate bypreparing a dried film on a 13×1 mm ZnSe crystal via the followingprotocol:

Approximately 1-3 mg of sample is deposited onto a single ZnSe crystaland then sandwiched with microscope cover slip. The cover slip isremoved and the remaining cream on the ZnSe crystal is dried for 60minutes in a desiccator ((26% RH (+/−3% RH) and 21° C. (+/−2° C.)).Following this drying period, a second ZnSe crystal is gently pressedonto the crystal with the dried cream, mounted into a Specac solidssample holder, inserted into the Specac heating jacket (Swedesboro,N.J.) assembly, and then mounted into the FTIR spectrometer.

FTIR spectra were acquired with Nicolet iS50 FTIR spectrometer (ThermoScientific, NH, USA) equipped with Mercury-Cadmium-Telluride (MCT)detector, a Specac electrical heating jacket, a specac transmissionsolid cell holder, a Simplex scientific temperature controller(Middleton, Wis., USA) and a NesLab Digital Plus circulation bath.Thermotropic spectral acquisition was managed via TempProfile v2.2.3(Simplex Scientific, Middleton, Wis.) and OMNIC v9.2.98 software. Thisparticular version of TempProfile contained a temperature DDE outputthat enabled automated circulation bath control for cooling via aseparate software script.

Thermotropic FTIR was conducted on each lipid system from 25° C. to 80°C. at a ramp rate of 1° C. per minute. Atmospheric suppressed absorbancespectra were collected at 1 spectrum per minute, at 4 cm⁻¹ resolutionand 16 co-addition. Temperature for each acquired spectrum was recordedin the spectrum title via the TempProfile software. Post-acquisition,spectra were saved as individual .spc files in GRAMS software(ThermoScientific, NH, USA).

Results

The water vapor transmission rates for Formulations 1-13 are illustratedin Table 17:

TABLE 17 Formulation WVTR number Composition g · m⁻² · hr⁻¹ Std DevRemoval 1 PC, ISIS 91.29 2.39 COH, BOH, BCOOH 2 PC, BOH, ISIS 85.60 9.24COH, BCOOH 3 PC, COH, BOH 65.66 1.34 BCOOH, ISIS 4 PC, COH, BCOOH 67.5813.57 BOH, ISIS 5 PC, COH, BOH, BCOOH 62.55 1.85 ISIS 6 PC, BCOOH, ISIS(not wt 88.90 1.90 COH, corrected) BOH 7 PC, BCOOH, ISIS (wt corrected)94.30 0.20 COH, BOH 8 PC, BCOOH 100.46 3.60 COH, BOH, ISIS 9 PC, COH,BCOOH, ISIS, 67.32 1.20 BOH fractionated GMB 10 PC, COH, BOH, BCOOH55.80 1.34 ISIS 11 PC, COH, BOH, ISIS 89.68 12.62 BCOOH 12 PC, BOH,BCOOH, ISIS 43.58 5.43 COH 13 PC, BOH, BCOOH 55.51 2.19 COH, ISIS PC =Phosphatidylcholine; ISIS = Isostearyl isostearate; COH = Cetyl alcohol;BOH = Behenyl alcohol; Behenic acid = BCOOH

Formulation 1 containing phosphatidylcholine and ISIS had a WVTR of91.29 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹. Similarly, Formulation 8 containingphosphatidylcholine and behenic acid (i.e. no fatty alcohol) had a WVTRof 100.46 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹. A similar result was obtained for Formulations 6and 7, containing phosphatidylcholine, behenic acid and ISIS (i.e. nofatty alcohol).

By contrast, Formulation 3 which contained phosphatidylcholine, cetylalcohol and behenyl alcohol had a WVTR of 65.66 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹. Thisindicated that improved occlusion may be obtained from a compositioncontaining phosphatidylcholine and fatty alcohol. Note however thatcompositions containing phosphatidylcholine, fatty alcohol and ISISperformed poorly—see Formulations 2 and 11 which had a WVTR of 85.60 and89.68 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹, respectively.

The addition of behenic acid to Formulation 3 resulted in a furtherimprovement in the WVTR. See Formulations 5 and 10 which had a WVTR of62.55 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ and 55.80 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹, respectively. This indicated thata composition containing a combination of phosphatidylcholine, fattyalcohol and fatty acid is desirable for its ability to form an occlusivelayer on the skin.

A composition containing a mixture of phosphatidylcholine, behenylalcohol, behenic acid and isostearyl isostearate resulted in furtherimprovement. See Formulation 12 which had a WVTR of 43.58 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹.

Taken together, the data illustrates that a preparation containingphosphatidylcholine and fatty alcohol offers improved levels ofocclusion (see Formulation 3). However, the further addition of a fattyacid such as behenic acid improves the level of occlusion (seeFormulation 5 and 10). The packing structure of Formulation 10 wasdetermined using wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) and found to beorthorhombic form, consistent with the formation of a planar lipidbilayer structure.

The best level of occlusion was observed from a composition containingphosphatidylcholine, behenyl alcohol, behenic acid and isostearylisostearate (see Formulation 12). The packing structure of Formulation12 was also determined using WAXS and found to be orthorhombic form,consistent with the formation of a planar lipid bilayer structure.

Or put differently, the data illustrates that the presence ofphosphatidylcholine and fatty alcohol is critical and that incrementalimprovement may be obtained from the further addition of a fatty acid,or from the further addition of a fatty acid and an ester of a branchedfatty acid and a branched fatty alcohol. It is thought that longer chain(i.e. C₁₂-C₃₆ and more especially C₁₈-C₃₆) fatty alcohols and fattyacids are desirable because of their ability to pack in close proximitywith the phospholipid component and initiate hydrogen bondinginteractions.

Example 2—Additional Compositions

The following additional compositions were prepared and shown in Table18 and 19 below.

TABLE 18 Formulations 14-17 (lotions) 15 14 lotion with 16 lotion with1% 0.25% Pterowhite lotion with 17 Ingredients Material Peptide (2.5%IPD) 0.5% shea tris lotion Water Water 61.200 59.450 61.700 62.200Lamellar Cetyl alcohol 1.500 1.500 1.500 1.500 Blend Behenic acid 0.9000.900 0.900 0.900 Behenyl alcohol 4.250 4.250 4.250 4.250 Hydrogenated1.250 1.250 1.250 1.250 phosphatidylcholine ISIS 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900Strengthen Niacinamide 3.000 3.000 3.000 3.000 Barrier (inside Peptide1.000 out) Waxes/Butters Shea butter Petrolatum 10.000 10.000 10.00010.000 Polymer Sepimax Weo Polyacrylate 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500crosspolymer-6 Humectants Glycerin 10.000 10.000 10.000 10.000 Panthenol1.500 1.500 1.500 1.500 Preservative Pentylene glycol 1.500 1.500 1.5001.500 System Hexylene glycol 1.600 1.600 1.600 1.600 Trisodium 0.2000.200 0.200 0.200 ethylenediamine disuccinate Additional PMEA 0.7000.700 0.700 0.700 Bioactives Ptero white 0.250 Shea Tris 0.500Solubilizer Isopentyldiol 2.500 100.000 100.000 100.000 100.000

TABLE 19 Formulations 18-21 (balms) 19 20 18 balm with balm with balmwith 0.25% 0.5% shea 21 Ingredients Material 1% Peptide Pterowhite trisbalm Water Water 51.200 51.950 51.700 52.200 Lamellar Blend Cetylalcohol 1.500 1.500 1.500 1.500 Behenic acid 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900Behenyl alcohol 4.250 4.250 4.250 4.250 Hydrogenated 1.250 1.250 1.2501.250 phosphatidylcholine ISIS 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900 StrengthenNiacinamide 3.000 3.000 3.000 3.000 Barrier (inside Peptide 1.000 out)Waxes/Butters Shea butter 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 Petrolatum 10.00010.000 10.000 10.000 Polymer Sepimax Weo Polyacrylate 0.500 0.500 0.5000.500 crosspolymer-6 Humectants Glycerin 10.000 10.000 10.000 10.000Panthenol 1.500 1.500 1.500 1.500 Preservative Pentylene glycol 1.5001.500 1.500 1.500 System Hexylene glycol 1.600 1.600 1.600 1.600Trisodium 0.200 0.200 0.200 0.200 ethylenediamine disuccinate AdditionalPMEA 0.700 0.700 0.700 0.700 Bioactives Ptero white 0.250 Shea Tris0.500 Solubilizer Isopentyldiol 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 100.000 100.000100.000 100.000Calculation of Mol % for Formulations 14-21

TABLE 20 Mass Lamellar Ingredients Mol Wt Formulations 14-21 Cetylalcohol 242.441 1.5 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 1.25 Isostearylisostearate 536.96 0.9 Behenic acid 369.3099 0.9 Behenyl alcohol 322.64.25 Glyceryl Monobehenate 414.662 Observed WVTR (g · m⁻² · hr⁻¹) About40

TABLE 21 Moles Ingredients Mol Wt Formulations 14-21 Cetyl alcohol242.441 0.006187072 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 0.001581978 Isostearylisostearate 536.96 0.001676103 Behenic acid 369.3099 0.002436978 Behenylalcohol 322.6 0.01317421 Glyceryl Monobehenate 414.662 0 Total Moles0.02505634

TABLE 22 Mol % Mol % Mol Wt Formulations 14-21 Cetyl alcohol 242.44124.69264174 Phosphatidylcholine 790.15 6.313683853 Isostearylisostearate 536.96 6.689334873 Behenic acid 369.3099 9.725992327 Behenylalcohol 322.6 52.57834721 Glyceryl Monobehenate 414.662 0 100Method of Preparation

Formulations 14-21 were prepared using the following generalmethod/process:

-   -   1. Add all components (except polymer, and peptide/Ptero white        where applicable) to a reaction vessel and heat to 80° C.,        whilst mixing.    -   2. Add polymer.    -   3. Homogenize (25 m/s) for 10 minutes and cool to 40° C.    -   4. Add peptide and Ptero white, where applicable.    -   5. Homogenize (25/s) for 10 minutes.        Characterization of Additional Compositions

Formulations 14 (lotion) and 18 (balm) were characterized using themethodologies described in Example 1. The test results are shown inTable 23. In particular, the water vapor transmission rate was measuredto determine the level of occlusiveness of the compositions. Also, smallangle X-ray defraction (SAXS) was used to determine the thickness of thebi-layer structure and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR)was used to determine the level of orderedness of the alkyl groups inthe components of the bilayer structure.

TABLE 23 Method of characterization Formulation 14 Formulation 18 WVTRapproximately 40 approximately 40 SAXS 18.4 nm wet and 7.2 nm dry 18.0nm wet and 6.7 nm dry FTIR <2850, 45 <2850, 45

Collectively, the data illustrate that the compositions of the inventionare able to form an occlusive layer on the skin and have an orderedbilayer structure.

Example 3—Comparative Compositions

The following comparative compositions were prepared—see Table 24. Thatis, for Formulations 22 and 23, the DuraQuench IQ blend described in WO2012/104604, and commercially available from Croda Chemicals, was addedto the base formulation shown in Table 1. For Formulation 24, theProLipid® 141 blend as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,849,315 was added tothe base formulation shown in Table 1.

TABLE 24 Ingredients 22 23 24 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 5.005.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 7.50 7.50 7.50 Duraquench IQ 3.50 5.00ProLipid 141 3.00 Glyceryl stearate, behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid,stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcoholVegetable oil 2.00 2.00 2.00 Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter) 1.601.60 1.60 Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium 0.20 0.20 0.20 acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer Sodiumhyaluronate 0.10 0.10 0.10 Water 59.60 58.10 60.10 Glycerin 10.00 10.0010.00 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.50 0.50 0.50 Pentylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00Niacinamide 3.00 3.00 3.00 D-Panthenol 1.40 1.40 1.40 Trisodiumethylenediamine 0.10 0.10 0.10 disuccinate 100.00 100.00 100.00 ObservedWVTR (g · m² · hr⁻¹) 93.2 89.68 94.42Method of Preparation

-   -   1. Heat oils; Note: Formulation 24 was heated to 85-90° C., and        Formulations 22 and 23 were heated to 100° C. (i.e. because a        milky white appearance was observed which did not dissipate even        on heating to 100° C.).    -   2. Add polymer at 85° C. with gentle homogenization.    -   3. Add water phase (bulk of water and glycerol, plus pentylene        glycol for Formulations 22 and 23) heated to 75° C.    -   4. Homogenize at 12,000 rpm.    -   5. Heat a separate phase containing sodium hyaluronate,        niacinamide, panthenol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate        and a small portion of water (plus pentylene glycol for        Formulation 24) to 40-45° C. until dissolved and cooled to 30°        C.    -   6. Add phase from step 5 to the bulk composition at 35° C.    -   7. Adjust pH to 5.5 (+1-0.3).    -   8. Add water to compensate for evaporative losses and        re-homogenize briefly to incorporate added water.        Measurement of Water Vapor Transmission Rate

The water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) of the three comparativecompositions was determined using the same method described inExample 1. An additional comparative example is the Physiogel HandCream, noted herein as Formulation 25. The results are shown in Table 25below:

TABLE 25 Formulation number Observed WVTR (g · m⁻² · hr⁻¹) Std Dev 2293.2 3.88 23 89.68 3.44 24 94.42 4.2 25 72.02 3.5

The comparative compositions were observed to have a dramaticallygreater WVTR than the compositions of the present invention which have aWVTR of less than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹. This is consistent with theobservation that the present inventive compositions have improved levelsof occlusivity compared with those of the prior art.

The above description fully discloses the invention including preferredembodiments thereof. Modifications and improvements of the embodimentsspecifically disclosed herein are within the scope of the followingclaims. Without further elaboration, it is believed that one skilled inthe art can, using the preceding description, utilize the presentinvention to its fullest extent. Therefore, the Examples herein are tobe construed as merely illustrative and not a limitation of the scope ofthe present invention in any way. The embodiments of the invention inwhich an exclusive property or privilege is claimed are defined asfollows.

What is claimed is:
 1. A topical oil-in-water emulsion compositioncomprising: (a) a discontinuous oil phase; (b) a continuous aqueousphase comprising water; (c) a thickening agent; (d) at least onelamellar membrane structure comprising (i) a phospholipid which ishydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, (ii) a fatty alcohol which is behenylalcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, (iii) a fattyacid which is behenic acid, and (iv) an ester of a fatty acid and afatty alcohol which is isostearyl isostearate, wherein the fatty alcoholand the phospholipid are present in a weight ratio of from about 10:1 toabout 1:1; the fatty alcohol and the fatty acid are present in a weightratio of from about 10:1 to about 1:1; and the fatty alcohol and theester are present in a weight ratio of from about 10:1 to about 1:1; andwherein in use the composition has a water vapor transmission rate ofless than about 70 g·m⁻²·hr⁻¹ measured in vitro using the modWVTR testmethodology.
 2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein thecomposition further comprises glycerin in an amount from about 5% toabout 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 3.The composition according to claim 1 wherein the phospholipid is presentin an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.
 4. The composition according to claim 1wherein the fatty alcohol is present in an amount from about 2% to about15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
 5. Thecomposition according to claim 1 wherein the fatty acid is present in anamount from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weightof the composition.
 6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein theester is present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight,based on the total weight of the composition.
 7. The compositionaccording to claim 1, which further comprises at least onedermatologically acceptable excipient selected from an antioxidant, achelating agent, a preservative, a colorant, a sensate, a moisturizer, ahumectant, a pH adjusting agent, and combinations and mixtures thereof.8. The composition according to claim 1, which further comprises atleast one pharmaceutically acceptable active agent.
 9. A method formoisturizing, and protecting, repairing, or restoring the skin lipidbarrier of a mammal, the method comprising applying to the skin of themammal in need thereof an effective amount of the topical oil-in-wateremulsion composition comprising a composition according to claim
 1. 10.The composition according to claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of thephospholipid:fatty alcohol:fatty acid:ester is about 1.4:6.4:1:1.